It seems to me a lot could be learned about HDR from a shared simple exercise. How about your camera on a tripod, and a candle on a table? Put a book or something else interesting with fine detail next to the candle. Light the candle, turn off all room lights (needless to day, do this at night), then take your 3-5 exposures, 1-2 EV apart. Assemble into HDR using your preferred technique, then post what you get here along with how you did it.

Sounds like a good exercise Doug and I haven't tried really extreme HDR imaging with nighttime shots....shot in near darkness!....should be interesting

Thought I would try a comparison (Granny says I go overboard!)


Shot with Canon S1Is (3mp)
from about 4 feet
200ASA
Custom White Balance using sheet of paper
2 stops up and down
Auto 3 exposure burst
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

1
Middle/Normal Exposure (http://img444.imageshack.us/my.php?image=unmodifiedcv1.jpg)

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2
HDR Photomatix
Default Tone mapping
Photoshop CS2
Levels
Gradient layer to even things out
NoiseWare
Lab sharpen (http://img106.imageshack.us/my.php?image=imgtonemappedee2.jpg)

~~~~~~~~~~~

3
Photoshop CS2
Shadow/Highlight
Levels, Curves
NoiseWare
Hue/Saturation
Lab Sharpen (http://img405.imageshack.us/my.php?image=csshadowhighlightsh3.jpg)

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4
Photoshop CS2
History Brush Set to Screen
Levels, Curves
NoiseWare
Hue/Saturation
Lab Sharpen (http://img106.imageshack.us/my.php?image=historyscreenpj8.jpg)

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My conclusion...

The candle flame looks better in HDR.. BUT.. this is maybe the third time I used Photomatix.. (could probably be much better in more capable hands)


Just using the History brush don't look bad to me!

Good test. I can't see much exposure difference between 3 and 4, but 4 definitely looks smoother. 2 has so much color noise I can't get much beyond that.

With such a harsh specular highlight (the candle) there's not a lot of reason to underexpose. I was hoping the shadows being available in the midtone area might mitigate some of the noise, but perhaps this was a bit of a drastic test.

I'll be posting a test of my own, but I have to go tripod shopping first :)

what did you do in 4 to get significantly less noise? You used noise ware in each case?

Here's my attempt with my Nikon D80 / 18-200mm VR. I took these 3 images using manual focus:

52404
normal exposure - f4.5 - ISO 100 - 1 second 31mm

52405
under-exposed - f4.5 - ISO 100 - 4/10 second 31mm

52406
over-exposed - f4.5 - ISO 100 - 6 seconds 31mm

52407
Final HDR image

I shot RAW images...don't know if that made much difference!...and then processed them in Photomatix using the default method. Finished off with some contrast tweaks in Photoshop and I cropped it a little.

Conclusion: I can only bracket for 3 exposures at +/- 2ev....maybe it would be more successful with cameras that can bracket more.....mind you, I used a tripod so I could have taken 5 bracketed images but I didn't think of it at the time. I really think though for successful HDR images you need a more equal amount of extreme highlights and shadows to get a better range.

Maybe tomorrow I'll try with 5 exposures and see if that covers the whole range.

olbaldy - Would have thought you could get a lot smoother tone mapping than that with three exposures. I dont know Photomatrix. Why dont you just use Merge to HDR? even CS2 its good enough, you can output different layers into a 16 bit file using different mapping techniques one for localised detail and another for overall tone avoiding all the shadow noise. If you are using CS3 you can then read the file into camera RAW for nice high bit depth tonal work

ChinaMark:

ISO 100 is more daring than I've been in my prelim tests :)
Good final result, though I'm still debating over whether I just like the 6 second exposure better by itself.

I do think a wider range with even EV steps might be helpful.

...ChinaMark. I took your brightest version and copied the Darkest version on Top layer and ran a Dynamic Range Extender Script-fu on it. I then ran a Tonemap Script-fu to further enhance the piece. Finally, I took a copy of the original bright version and copied it to Top layer and set to Saturation and blended it down to taste. :)

Sounds like we might need a separate thread explaining Script-fu, or even a blog :)

Ikroll's method sounds a hell of a lot easier than all this HDR palava:)

LOL

I'm sure; in fact I know there are CS2 actions that can do this too on Action Central. Believe it was Chip that created an action that does this (CSpringer). Always a lot easier to use scripts and plugins, especially if you are lazy like me. :)

This Is a great idea and enjoyed "having a go " problem is camera limitations and i think i have exceeded them on my camera, when using the aeb in low light i am getting banding more noticeably down the left side (or top) .
I probably would not knowingly post a image with this problem but as i made the effort i will.

I got out the little tripod attached it then decided i wanted a portrait shot so stood the camera on end on top of some books to get the height wanted (tripod sticking out :confused:) took 3 shots -2,0,+2 and then used the trial version of hdri

Palms

what did you do in 4 to get significantly less noise? You used noise ware in each case?

In 3 I used Layer>Adjustments> Shadow/highlight and it seemed to show a lot more colored and neutral noise..
In 4 I did not make any different adjustments to the picture except for using the history brush around the perimeter. On second thought I probably did change a few settings in NoiseWare
~~~~~~~~~~

olbaldy - Why dont you just use Merge to HDR? even CS2 its good enough, you can output different layers into a 16 bit file using different mapping techniques one for localised detail and another for overall tone avoiding all the shadow noise. If you are using CS3 you can then read the file into camera RAW for nice high bit depth tonal work

Answer: I looked again at the HDR thingy in CS2 and finally figured out how to merge to HDR.. I did not have enough tonal range before when I tried it.. It worked well on these images though..

As for the rest of your post... HUH? Way over my head...
HINT.. there is a tutorial section here at RetouchPro.. I would love to learn what the heck you just said.. BTW, I use PS7 mostly and CS2 just recently... my camera is a point and shoot... no RAW, but it has satisfied my needs thus far.
I would like to see a sample from you of what you are talking about in this thread using this "simple exercise" in HDR..
~~~~~~~~~~~

ChinaMark

I think your HDR looks very good.. lots of detail in both the near and far objects
~~~~~~~~~

palms1

Your composition, like your art work, is superb I think it came out pretty well except for the banding.. How does your longest exposure compare to the Tonemap?


I Re-Shot my previous scene using manual, ISO 50, F8 using a bracket of 7 shots from 1/25 thru 3Sec... (maybe longer exposures, maybe up to a minuet or more, may have helped some)It's a pretty big area (4ft X 5ft) to capture with one little candle..

These have not had anything done to them except being saved for web to be posted here.. The last photo on the right is a HDR tonemap from just the one 3 second exposure(I used an older version of Photomatix for this, The newer versions need 2 or more photos to make a HDR)

3 sec exposure, ToneMap, EnhansedToneMap, 1PhotoToneMap

Thank you for your kind comments OlBaldy unfortunately i cant look anything up on the images taken, because i had a "Hissy fit" when i saw the banding on the final image and deleted everything :mad::eek:

Palms

palms1..Bad Girl!

Like I said in my previous post I finally figured out the merge to HDR in CS2 thanks to Markzebra having me re-visit it.. and here is that unmodified HDR from CS2

I think a few strategically placed reflectors would have enhanced the scene greatly; but, if you are going to the trouble to get a good table top shot why the need for HDR?

An Interesting "simple exercise" Doug.. I enjoyed playing with a camera again.. It's been maybe 15 years

OK, I will Shut The Heck Up now and give others a chance

Olbaldy,
Very nice! Has an erie feeling to it.

An Interesting "simple exercise" Doug.. I enjoyed playing with a camera again.. It's been maybe 15 years


Cool, hope we can keep your interest.

Doug, Thanks for starting a very interesting exercise. Tom

Hi there,

first of all very nice images what U did

here it is my try and some of detail:

I used a Canon EOS D350 on a tripod, ISO100 at f5,6 aperture, the optimal shutter speed by the compact photometer was 2", bracketing +-2EV, the blue light created by a key chain torch, HDR created by photomatix and converted in cs2 at local adaptation corrected S curve, high pass layer sharpened.

ChinaMark,

I hope you don't mind, but I used your two images to take a crack at it.

Based on what I've seen people do and based on some very sophisticated workflow being discussed (which for the life of me I can't never seem to remember...), I decided to simplify the workflow. This, lkroll (http://www.retouchpro.com/forums/members/lkroll.html), is basically the same as yours except that I didn't use scripts. It is one less thing for me to remember :-)

I don't mean to imply that I came up with this: there is nothing new or unique in this workflow. For me it works because it is simple and gives decent results. It does require two images of the same subject.

With Photoshop...

Open the overexposed image
Paste the underexposed image on top of it
You now have 2 layers: 1 light and 2 dark
Select layer one and copy it (ctlr + c)
Select layer 2 and create a vector mask
Select the newly created mask (alt + click) and paste the image into it
Filter > Blur > Gaussian using around 30 to 40 for hight contrast images
10 to 20 for less contrast.
Select Layer 2 and your are done.

Color balance, curves and levels to taste...

Hi Frank,
No, I don't mind at all. That's a nice effect and it's always god to learn different ways of doing things.
Mark

Hi there,
thought this was a good idea to have a hack at HDR. Here is my image:

Click here (http://img255.imageshack.us/my.php?image=manualhdrjh0.jpg)

Used three photos in the end- 0eV, -2eV and +3eV.

Put the layers into photoshop in ascending order and set blending to multiply. then cut holes in layers to expose highlights beneath. Shot my pic in raw, psd file ended up being over 500MB! Don't know how I managed that!