Trimoon
09-06-2002, 05:41 PM
I’ve been struggling for several days to put together a tutorial on how to do my digital art. I’m like a lot of you who like to sit down and try different things. That is kind of what I’ve always done. I’ve been working with Photoshop for many years now – ever since version 3 came out. I know through experience what tools do what and, to some extent, the variations that can be applied through these tools. I can’t really put together a tutorial as I wanted. I don’t have the time just now because of work and other things, but I do get great enjoyment out of sitting down and taking a photograph and seeing where it will go. I thought I would tell you what tools I use and what these tools can do and not concentrate on any one group of techniques.
First of all, you have to evaluate the image. Not all images qualify. However, a lot of bad images do, as long as the dpi is there. This is to say that, if you have enough image, either you have the dpi or the size to work with. What I mean is a one-to-one size. If the image is going to be 18x24, then the dpi is not as important if the image is already sized at 18x24. Once you’ve picked out your image, decide on whether you are going to keep the background or not. Most of the time I’ll remove people and critters out of a background if it’s too cluttered and will interfere. I won’t get into telling you how to remove it since most of you already know how to use the extract tool.
Once the image is extracted from the background, I will apply some sort of filter. It doesn’t really matter which filter. It all depends on the look you’re going for. What you are trying to do is put some texture to the image, like brush strokes, and you usually can do this through Buzz Pro or Print Engine or any of the other filters indigenous to Photoshop.
Next I will fade to my liking the filter I just applied. Now we concentrate on the background. I usually like to pick a color that is in the subject somewhere or maybe one of my colors that I’m particularly fond of, if it applies. In your foreground and background color, there should be a combination of the two colors you wish to use for the background. For example, I may use beige for the foreground and the background white. Create new layer and name it “image background” and fill it with the color that you have chosen.
Then go up to the menu, select filter > render > clouds. See if this color combination is pleasing. If so, go back up to filter > render > difference clouds. Apply this several times, usually it takes at least two to get a base, and then I usually hit “control F” (PC) or “command F” (Mac).
Then create a second layer (naming it “white base”), fill with white, and position it below your background layer. Adjust the image background layer, using the opacity for that layer, until your image background layer is to your liking. At this point I merge my layers and create a second layer naming it “mask 1”. This is where your artistic abilities are put to the test. You pick a brush (I usually use “brush heavy flow scattered”) from your brush menu. If it is not there, go to your brush menu and on your drop-down menu, select “wet media brushes”.
If you look on your “mask 1” layer, you will see that you have two boxes. The one to the right, which is blacked out, is what you will be working on. You will notice in your foreground and background palette that you have black and white. Black will remove the mask and white will replace it. I usually set the opacity to from around 20 to 40. Depending on how it starts, I may change this to an even lower number. I set the size of my brush to 20. Then I just start stroking away the color, revealing the image underneath. Usually, in other industries, this is called “glazing” and “wiping”, where you apply a color and then remove it in slow stages.
I may repeat this last stage several times with several different colors. Again, this depends on my image and how it progresses. This is where the artist’s eye comes into play and you do what’s best. I will merge layers, create new ones and even duplicate the main layer and apply different blending modes.
The thing to remember is to always keep one layer on backup in case you mess up. What you are trying to do is remove any digital trails, soften edges, and I usually use the healing brush for creating a transition between the image and your background. It works very well. I stumbled across this when I had to extend an artist’s painting by ¼ inch and it duplicated and blended her original work perfectly.
The final thing I usually do is add texture or depth to the image. A really quick and dirty way to create some depth is to duplicate your image, go to menu, select filter > stylize > emboss. Then go to your layer modes and select either overlay or soft light and adjust the opacity to your liking. You might want to try and add a little paper texture to it, such as “sandstone” with a setting of scaling at 65, relief at 2 and light direction at bottom right. That’s it.
I’m sorry I couldn’t do any better. I just don’t always pay attention to what I’m doing.
The image is off the net and I don’t know where, hope no one gets mad.
Note: no nxxxxe
* - - - - - -
Unfortunately I may have discovered a 'bug' in the forum software while working with a copy of this thread in the TESTING 1-2-3 forum. The original attachment for this post got 'unattached' on the Testing 1-2-3 copy, which inexplictly unattached it in the original (this) post. I reattached it, but this reset the 'downloaded' counter to 0. So add "40" to the download count. - DannyR
First of all, you have to evaluate the image. Not all images qualify. However, a lot of bad images do, as long as the dpi is there. This is to say that, if you have enough image, either you have the dpi or the size to work with. What I mean is a one-to-one size. If the image is going to be 18x24, then the dpi is not as important if the image is already sized at 18x24. Once you’ve picked out your image, decide on whether you are going to keep the background or not. Most of the time I’ll remove people and critters out of a background if it’s too cluttered and will interfere. I won’t get into telling you how to remove it since most of you already know how to use the extract tool.
Once the image is extracted from the background, I will apply some sort of filter. It doesn’t really matter which filter. It all depends on the look you’re going for. What you are trying to do is put some texture to the image, like brush strokes, and you usually can do this through Buzz Pro or Print Engine or any of the other filters indigenous to Photoshop.
Next I will fade to my liking the filter I just applied. Now we concentrate on the background. I usually like to pick a color that is in the subject somewhere or maybe one of my colors that I’m particularly fond of, if it applies. In your foreground and background color, there should be a combination of the two colors you wish to use for the background. For example, I may use beige for the foreground and the background white. Create new layer and name it “image background” and fill it with the color that you have chosen.
Then go up to the menu, select filter > render > clouds. See if this color combination is pleasing. If so, go back up to filter > render > difference clouds. Apply this several times, usually it takes at least two to get a base, and then I usually hit “control F” (PC) or “command F” (Mac).
Then create a second layer (naming it “white base”), fill with white, and position it below your background layer. Adjust the image background layer, using the opacity for that layer, until your image background layer is to your liking. At this point I merge my layers and create a second layer naming it “mask 1”. This is where your artistic abilities are put to the test. You pick a brush (I usually use “brush heavy flow scattered”) from your brush menu. If it is not there, go to your brush menu and on your drop-down menu, select “wet media brushes”.
If you look on your “mask 1” layer, you will see that you have two boxes. The one to the right, which is blacked out, is what you will be working on. You will notice in your foreground and background palette that you have black and white. Black will remove the mask and white will replace it. I usually set the opacity to from around 20 to 40. Depending on how it starts, I may change this to an even lower number. I set the size of my brush to 20. Then I just start stroking away the color, revealing the image underneath. Usually, in other industries, this is called “glazing” and “wiping”, where you apply a color and then remove it in slow stages.
I may repeat this last stage several times with several different colors. Again, this depends on my image and how it progresses. This is where the artist’s eye comes into play and you do what’s best. I will merge layers, create new ones and even duplicate the main layer and apply different blending modes.
The thing to remember is to always keep one layer on backup in case you mess up. What you are trying to do is remove any digital trails, soften edges, and I usually use the healing brush for creating a transition between the image and your background. It works very well. I stumbled across this when I had to extend an artist’s painting by ¼ inch and it duplicated and blended her original work perfectly.
The final thing I usually do is add texture or depth to the image. A really quick and dirty way to create some depth is to duplicate your image, go to menu, select filter > stylize > emboss. Then go to your layer modes and select either overlay or soft light and adjust the opacity to your liking. You might want to try and add a little paper texture to it, such as “sandstone” with a setting of scaling at 65, relief at 2 and light direction at bottom right. That’s it.
I’m sorry I couldn’t do any better. I just don’t always pay attention to what I’m doing.
The image is off the net and I don’t know where, hope no one gets mad.
Note: no nxxxxe
* - - - - - -
Unfortunately I may have discovered a 'bug' in the forum software while working with a copy of this thread in the TESTING 1-2-3 forum. The original attachment for this post got 'unattached' on the Testing 1-2-3 copy, which inexplictly unattached it in the original (this) post. I reattached it, but this reset the 'downloaded' counter to 0. So add "40" to the download count. - DannyR