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March 05 Contest Discussion

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  #81  
Old 03-18-2005, 09:56 AM
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T Paul T Paul is offline
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Too funny Gary...remind me not to have my photo taken by you.

Very good questions Sean.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean2
Could someone please explain why the contest picture has a very dark shadow under the model's right eye. Her right side appears to be towards the light and consequently a little blown out. Is it artifacts or something else?
As for the answer, I don’t know, but here is my guess. The image was a copy of a photomechanical halftone print.

Quote:
Photomechanical Methods
A photomechanical or process print is created from a matrix upon which the image has been photographically transferred from an original source. Photomechanical methods were developed in the late nineteenth century. A common characteristic of many photomechanical prints is their use of half tone screens which produce an image through the use of small dots.

The Half-Tone Process: Dots not Dashes
The invention of the half-tone process replaced lines with dots. Using a special screen that resembles a screen door, a photographic image is projected through it onto a sensitized printing plate. The screen transforms the image into a series of tiny dots onto the plate. These tiny dots allow for a much finer detail that before the half-tone process. While the half-tone didn't always produce the quality and detail of a real photograph, it can make a good representation. If you look closely at a picture in today's newspaper or a magazine lying around you will see that it is made up of tiny dots. The smaller and closer together the dots, the more detailed the image.
Under magnification, a halftone looks like a series of dots which are larger and more dense in dark areas and smaller or non-existent in light areas. So for the contest image since the dark areas have more dense dots, this resulted in a very dark shadow under her eye. Furthermore, since the right side is very white due to the light source, this area would hardly have any dots, except for the darker sections…making the darker sections really stand out. It also might just be a result of the printing process. Well, that’s my guess.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean2
Is it normal to leave dark shadows in when conducting a restoration or is it a matter of taste? How much flexibility does one really have when colorizing or restoring for payment?
I’d say a lot is up to personal taste and what the client wants, but as a general rule, areas that look unnatural are most likely retouched to create more natural looking results. For example, I looked at the chin area for some time trying to figure out if the chin really had such a sharp dimple or was it perhaps the shadow from the flower. I finally decided the chin looked more natural without the hard shadow and cloned it out.
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  #82  
Old 03-18-2005, 10:16 AM
Sean2 Sean2 is offline
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Thank you Gary and T.,

I have to admit I did not catch the chin dimple. Fascinating explanation and one that makes a lot of sense.

On another note, there seems to be excellent collections of skin tones available here. Has anyone collected similar swatches or patches of colour for various eras or photographic forms, or do restorers and retouchers go on feel or acquire a photo of similar era and color match or select based on a template picture.

I wonder because there is a tremendous array of color and "feels", even among these contest efforts: too the point of oil-based, ethereal and most assuredly accurate for the time. I do know that the skin tones have been very helpful for me, and similar items for colorizing or restoring would be immensely beneficial (or at least for me - currently i have just been trying to clone available colors (faded or not), and when it came to this contest it was reliance on "what seemed to look okay" )

Sean
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  #83  
Old 03-18-2005, 11:26 AM
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I believe many people use Bruce Beard's Hair and Skin Color Charts as a good sampling source.

You can download them from the RetouchPro Resource Section:

Bruce Beard's Hair and Skin Color Charts
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  #84  
Old 03-18-2005, 03:54 PM
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Well the contest deadline is fast approaching…23 March.

For those of you working on images or thinking about entering you only have a few days left!

And for those of you that like to wait until the very last moment, remember that the deadline for entries is 5pm EST 23 March 2005.
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  #85  
Old 03-18-2005, 07:01 PM
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TwinbNJ TwinbNJ is offline
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Quote:
=T PaulBruce Beard's Hair and Skin Color Charts
That is my skin and hair bible -- have it printed out and on hand when ever I do color.
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  #86  
Old 03-19-2005, 11:13 AM
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I am finding all of the different approaches and methods that you all use fascinating, and I enjoy seeing the different results as well. I had never heard of Worth 1000, but I am fascinated by the method. I am learning so much reading all of your comments and seeing your work. I am so glad that I found this site, but I confess, I am a forum “dummy” and I am a little overwhelmed by the maze of information that is here. Thanks for all of the info and input.

Cathy
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  #87  
Old 03-20-2005, 08:17 PM
Sean2 Sean2 is offline
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Question on colorization:

I am wondering how people dealt with feathering (how many pixels) around items such as the eyes, mouth and rose. Do you blur the edges to make them fit in, or is it simply a question of blending the colors with opacity?

Another question I had was with regard to the sharpness or "soft" look in the pictures. How did you derive a dark, sharp and defined picture or conversely your soft look?

For myself,

I ran the original through a channel check and then used Levels to reduce some of the shadow, while highlighting what I perceived as the lighted side of her face. I then applied the brush tool to sample color on the face and paint over the "bruising" under the eyes - followed by varying fades.

I used the color replacement tool as mentioned earlier, and faded out the added colors through various strokes to enable the darker patterning / shadow to show through from the original below. The edges were taken care of by optimizing to 1600 and carefully maneuvering the cross to prevent significant or noticeable overlap - though not sure if that was accomplished.

Tried to ignore the odd shadowing around the arm through the application of a soft mask, but that really didn't achieve the task. Mask was set at 30 pixels to soften picture overall. Only blurred it. Then changed picture, sharpened the outline; ran a vertical gradient through the elbow, altered the rose and selected a different color variant for the background - more in line ( hopefully) with the era of the picture.

Colors were eyeballed rather than sampled from a picture of the same time frame.

DO "you" prefer the darker color tones or the softer ones and is the softening mask or glow often overdone ?

Does a guideline exist for for when sharp or soft restoration might be preferable?

Sean
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  #88  
Old 03-21-2005, 09:46 PM
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I stumbled upon this website around 2 months ago and have learned so much from the tutorials and messing around on my own with the challenges. After seeing this contest I figured I'd quit being a "lurker", as someone stated earlier, and finally post something. I'm amazed by the work that's done here.
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  #89  
Old 03-21-2005, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wooden_bender
After seeing this contest I figured I'd quit being a "lurker", as someone stated earlier, and finally post something. I'm amazed by the work that's done here.
Congrats for becoming a poster and "lurking" no more!
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  #90  
Old 03-22-2005, 01:31 PM
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Well it is almost time to vote. If you haven’t turned in your entry, you better hurry up!

When you do vote, it might be helpful to include some things you especially liked about your choices…what made them stand out, what impressed you, etc. This is a learning experience!

THANKS!!
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