Hi Bob, and welcome to Retouch Pro!
Here are my 2 cents for what they are worth.
I also have treasured memories on slides from the same era. Most of the sixties slides were Kodachrome and Ektachrome. It is very probable that the emulsions have to some extent detiorated (some minimally, some significantly) depending on storage conditions. If you are lucky, they will be in pretty good shape but not as vibrant as the year in which they were taken. Many may have experienced color shift which will manifest itself with a mild to medium color cast. Restoring them may be as quick and easy as an Auto Color or Auto Levels in Photoshop. You may also need to tweak the saturation, straighten and crop, and perhaps add a little sharpening to bring back the original "POP".
My point is that you will likely need a bit of post-scan processing. In order to preserve as much of the detail as possible, and have the best data to work with you will want to scan more data than you need. You can always throw it away later. Here is how I scan slides with my Coolscan.
Scan your slides at 4000 DPI. The reasons are simple. Firstly the scanners head has that many sensor elements per inch so you might as well use tem. Secondly, if you plan to print 11 x 14, your image dimensions will really be 11 x 16.5 and you will need to crop it down - that's because the aspect ration of the slide is 1 x 1.5 inches. If you scan you image at 4000 dpi, your scan will be 4000 x 6000 pixels. At 300 ppi, you can print rouhly 13 x 20 without up sampling, so you have your 11 x 14 requirement easily covered.
My recommendation is to scan at 16 bit depth, and turn off all of the auto settings on the scanner - no descreen, no levels, no curves, no auto contrast, no autolevels, NO sharpening. Take a basic raw scan into
PS or whatever program you edit with, and do all of you adjustments later.
Yes, this produces a huge file - roughly 144MB per scan uncompressed. Things you can do are:
Store this large file on DVD or Hard Drive. You can save as compressed TIF which will lower the file size to~60MB. If you want to get the size down further, you can do the essential edits, convert the file from 16 bit to 8 bit (which will halve the file size), then store as a compressed TIF or a jpg on setting 12 (which will be almost as large as the compressed tif. Personally I do not like compressed tifs as they slow the saving and opening process down. If the images are not that treasured, perhaps snap shots and are not unique, you can further down size.
All that being said, you can get buy with a image file that is only 2 MB. It really depends on what kind of quality and how large a print you plan to make at a later date.
In the end, remember that storage is relatively cheap and your slides will not last forever. For those memories which are truly priceless, you may want to err on the "too much data" instead of too little.
So here is a little side bar for you. I scanned several hundred slides a few years ago. I thought I did a great job, although some of the emulsions were high speed and the images had a lot of noticeable grain. I edited them and saved a low res version for 4 x 6 & 8 x 10 prints. However I archive the orig large file scans on a hard drive. Fast forward a few years and behold - you could get awesome noise filters like Noiseware and the editing tools in
PS and
PSP advanced tremendously. As good a job as I thought I did on the original edits, looked pitiful compared to the results I got with new tools and techniques. I was really happy that I had archived all those huge files. If the re-edits look as good to me in 5 years as they do today, despite where the technology may be, the I may feel secure enough to erase that old archive. But then who knows, in 5 years disk drives may hold a Frooglepoopillion Gigabytes.
Good luck with your project,
Regards, Murray