| Re: Key West Grunge Sure.
First thing I did was to take a series of shots starting about 2 stops above the autometered exposure so that I was exposing first for highlights. I set the camera's LCD display to blink on the overblown areas. At 2 stops above the metered exposure, nothing is going to be blown out, so that first image should have no blinkies in it. Then, while in full manual mode (because it's necessary to keep the fstop constant), I dialed in progressively slower shutter speeds, in 1 stop increments. When I got to the point that my last exposure was almost completely blinking/blown out, then I knew I'd exposed even for the darkest areas in the shot, and now I had my series of images to use for HDR conversion. So for each HDR converstion I had somewhere between 7 and 10 shots.
Next I created the HDR luminosity image using Photomatix, although you can use CS3 or any number of other HDR applications. Then is the fun part - tone mapping the HDR luminosity image. Using Photomatix, for each image it's a matter of moving the sliders back and forth to achieve the look you want. If you want a photo realistic look, then check the box in tone mapping called "tone compress", and if you want the illustrative look (which is what I wanted), then choose "details enhancer". After running the images through tone mapping(which by the way you can do multiple times to "multiply" the effect provided that you output the image as a 16 bit file), then I did curves, saturation and sharpening adjustments in CS3. |