Digitally enlarged negatives

[RobertP]

I shoot ultra large format negatives and contact print in platinum and palladium. Recently I've seen some digitally enlarged negatives that will rival film negatives. Most digital negative programs all use CS2 or CS3. All claim that curves are needed to adjust and then print the digital negative to the desired densities for contact printing in these alternative processes. I have HPPE3 that gives you curves but will not allow editing in 16 bit. In the larger more overwhelming CS3 program this is possible. My question is: Is it possible to use HPPE3 for use in producing quality digitally enlarged negatives? Or would CS3 be required for this. I'm trying to avoid the large leaning curve of CS3. But most digital negative programs all use this larger PS version . Has anyone tried producing a digital negative with HPPE3-4-5? Thanks, Robert

[pixelzombie]

interesting, what kind of camera do you use?

[RobertP]

I mostly work from in camera negatives. I use Ultra large formats 8x20, 12x20, and 16x20 format. I also have recently started doing wet-plate collodion ambrotypes, tintypes, and glass plate negatives for printing in albumen. I would like to shoot my old Rolleiflex medium format and scan with a Nikon 9000 and enlarge the neg digitally. The new inks seem to do a great job for digitally enlarged negatives. Or even scan my glass plates for inkjet enlargements

[pixelzombie]

what is HPPE3 btw?

[RobertP]

I'm sorry I didn't answer your question. I use a Wisner 8x20 that also has a vertical back. I also shoot an Old Korona 12x20 and I have a 16x20 that is not quite ready yet that is still being built. I wasn't smart enough to start with 16x20 and just have reducing backs made for it. But the 8x20 only weighs 14 lb and that's quite light by ULF standards. Thanks, Robert

[RobertP]

I thought it meant Hidden Power of Photoshop Elements 3.

[pixelzombie]

ahhh, ok....if you're doing a lot of 16-bit editing i would think you'd want CS3 then...

[RobertP]

Thanks, I guess there's no way to avoid that massive learning curve. I have a friend who teaches "the digital darkroom" at the local college. So I'll be asking her a lot of questions I'm sure. Thanks

[Richard_Lynch]

Robert,
A few things:
First, if you already use Elements for editing with any depth, there is not a 'massive learning curve' for using Photoshop. Get a good book and you'll do fine:

http://aps8.com/taplb.html
http://aps8.com/hppscs.html

You can get the latter used for like $3...which is ridiculous considering the quality of the materials. That book has a LOT of stuff in it that you just won't get elsewhere and which someone like yourself may appreciate.

As far as what you are doing with 'enlarging' scans...it doesn't sound right. If you are shooting large and medium format negs, you need to scan those at high resolution, not scan at a lower resolution and upsize digitally. The latter will interpolate rather than read the quality directly from the neg as a drum scan or other technology might.

16-bit editing will be helpful right up till the time you go to make the media (I am not sure from what you said if you make digital prints or print out to large format negs/slides). Devices will only use 8-bits, so too much concern there may be over-rated.

Other things to worry about: calibration, color management, correction techniques, workflow, layers/non-destructive editing...I'm sure there are some things I am leaving out. FEEL FREE TO ASK QUESTIONS HERE!! I may only get here a few times a week, but I'm glad to answer when I do.

Richard