Hi Richard,
My issue isn't image specific. I'm just looking to hone my workflow when post-processing images from a digital camera. I want to spend as little time as possible dealing with each image. Here's the scoop...
I'm into digital photography, and due to current limitations inherent in the technology - specifically, the limited dynamic range of CCD and CMOS sensors - I take one of two approaches when photographing a scene with a broad dynamic range.
1) If the range is broad enough, I use a "blended exposure" technique - i.e. compositing two frames, one of which is exposed for highlights and one for shadows. For this approach, I use your blend mask tool to isolate the highlights so I can composite them with the other frame.
2) If the dynamic range is not too great or if taking two separate photos is not possible (e.g. I'm not using a tripod or the scene is changing too quickly), I will expose for the highlights and then do my best to "rescue" the shadows.
For this latter approach, I had been using your blend mask tool and layer grouping. After reading about alternative approaches to "opening up shadows", I decided to give them a try. I found that I can get very good results in less time by using a layer mask approach. The advantages I've noticed with using layer masks are as follows:
* Quicker - For me, it's quicker because there is less mouse clicking.
* Less Screen Clutter - For example, to do a selective levels adjustment requires a single layer in the layers palette, whereas three layers are needed with the blend mask approach (the mask layer, the duplicated and grouped image layer, and the grouped levels adjustment layer).
* Less Disk Space - The file size is significantly smaller when using layer masks to affect a single background layer. I suspect this is because the background must be duplicated so that it can be grouped with each blend mask. Thus, it's like storing multiple copies of the image for each targeted adjustment. I know layers can be merged and flattened, but I often save a layered copy of my images so that I can go back and tweak them if necessary.
* No Special Tools Required - The layer mask approach can all be done with native
PSE functionality. This is particularly important because I may be providing some instruction to those starting out in digital photography, and the more that can be done with just
PSE without additional expense, the better. Also, I think it's a bit more intuitive for the beginner since black is effectively opaque, while white allows the layer to "show through".
Anyway, that's what I've noticed. If I'm overlooking or misunderstanding something, please let me know. Don't get me wrong, your book and tools are great. I could not get by without them. It's just that I think I've found a better way for this commonly performed task.
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Steve