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| History, Conservation, and Repair The history of photographic prints, and how best to care for and repair them. |
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#1
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| remove felt pen from photo I'm prepared to computer fix it but thought if there's a way. Thanks gang. Mick |
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#3
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| If the ink is of the permanent type, it has probably penetrated the image bearing portion of the photo(unless the photo was given a final coat of laquer or some other sealant coating) and very little can be done to remove it without actually removing or further damaging the image bearing layer.If the photo was given some type of final coating, you could place a very small drop of alcohol (or some other mild solvent) on a corner of the photo well away from any image bearing area, allow it to sit for 60 sec., then gently blot it up, looking closely for any fogging,discoloration,swelling or actual removal of the surface. I would be inclined, noting that you said this was a new photo, to scan it in and retouch, then have it printed, or, having another print made from the negative. Just my opinion, though...good luck Tom |
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#4
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| Thanks for the reply guys. I'll find out what kind of pen was used. Also will try toms suggestion. Mick |
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#5
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| Ink Removal The best chemical to try would be Pec12 - it's a cleaner designed for the purpose, removes most types of ink and is safe to use on almost any type of photograph. It should be available from your nearest camera store and if not you can buy online from Light Impressions. |
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#7
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| Jim, Are there any limitations on its use for Early gelatin or collodian printing out or developing papers? How about albumin prints? Thanks for the info... Tom |
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#8
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| Ink removal Like using any other chemical product, it's always advisable to edge test with a Q-tip. The answer to your question is that I've used it on almost every type of emulsion known without any problems. Just use it sparingly. With older emulsions it may soak through very fine cracks and into the backing. To control that, I keep a hair dryer handy to give it a blast of warm air and it evaporates almost instantly. Before copying (or scanning) just make sure that the backing is allowed to totally dry. Of course there are inks that will not come off with any chemical treatment and some clean up only in part, but it's still the best starting point. A final point here is that there are numerous inks that are water soluble. If Pec12 does nothing, it may be that water will do the job (again used with the Q-tip and hair dryer). You can look at the Q-tip and see instantly if there is any ink on it - if there is - just repeat the process until you are no longer lifting ink from the print. Jim Conway Timemark Photo Conservators |
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#10
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| Thanks much for the quick reply. Tom |
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#11
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| Excellent advice all. Thanks. Mick |
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#12
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| Keep Pec-12 away from Polaroids. Years ago I used some on a crime lab shot and the fingerprint disapeared. Bob |
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#13
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| Yeow! talk about tampering with evidence. That's a good peice of advice for someone who trys the Pec-12 and feels too confident in it's use. I may just get some of that stuff. Sounds great to have on hand. DJ |
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#14
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| I'm reading this post late. But the other day a woman came in the studio with a print. Her kid took a magic marker to it. I use a product called "OOOPS!". I've been using it quite a while. Works for me. It's a latex paint remover. White can with red letters. No. Joke.It works without damage to the print. Try it on a print you don't care about, if your worried about the labeling on the can that says "removes dried latex paint". p.s. you can go with PEC-12 though. Never tried it, myself. Last edited by john_opitz; 11-26-2001 at 04:57 PM. |
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#15
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| John Where do you get this stuff "Ooops"? Also, does is specify that it can be used on prints or did you find this out due to experimentation? Sounds pretty good. Might be nice to have a few possibilities on hand for when one doesn't work maybe the other will. Thanks for the tip. DJ |
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