remove felt pen from photo

[Mick B]

Hi all. Anybody know how to remove felt pen/magic marker from photo? Photo number 1 was written on the back and placed on photo number 2 before it dried. Only a few sporadic spots have found their way to the photo. It's a new school picture 5x7 matte finish so I think it's a pretty hardy photo and could withstand slight punishment............maybe?

I'm prepared to computer fix it but thought if there's a way.


Thanks gang.

Mick

[Doug Nelson]

You'd need to know what solvent is used in the marker. There's a whole gamut. Some offer removal options others don't. Any way of finding out?

[thomasgeorge]

If the ink is of the permanent type, it has probably penetrated the image bearing portion of the photo(unless the photo was given a final coat of laquer or some other sealant coating) and very little can be done to remove it without actually removing or further damaging the image bearing layer.If the photo was given some type of final coating, you could place a very small drop of alcohol (or some other mild solvent) on a corner of the photo well away from any image bearing area, allow it to sit for 60 sec., then gently blot it up, looking closely for any fogging,discoloration,swelling or actual removal of the surface. I would be inclined, noting that you said this was a new photo, to scan it in and retouch, then have it printed, or, having another print made from the negative. Just my opinion, though...good luck Tom

[Mick B]

Thanks for the reply guys. I'll find out what kind of pen was used.
Also will try toms suggestion.

Mick

[Jim Conway]

The best chemical to try would be Pec12 - it's a cleaner designed for the purpose, removes most types of ink and is safe to use on almost any type of photograph. It should be available from your nearest camera store and if not you can buy online from Light Impressions.

[Doug Nelson]

Sounds like we have a winner. I'd try anything from Light Impressions without hesitation (though I'd read the description and instructions very carefully).

[thomasgeorge]

Jim, Are there any limitations on its use for Early gelatin or collodian printing out or developing papers? How about albumin prints? Thanks for the info... Tom

[Jim Conway]

Like using any other chemical product, it's always advisable to edge test with a Q-tip. The answer to your question is that I've used it on almost every type of emulsion known without any problems. Just use it sparingly. With older emulsions it may soak through very fine cracks and into the backing. To control that, I keep a hair dryer handy to give it a blast of warm air and it evaporates almost instantly. Before copying (or scanning) just make sure that the backing is allowed to totally dry.

Of course there are inks that will not come off with any chemical treatment and some clean up only in part, but it's still the best starting point. A final point here is that there are numerous inks that are water soluble. If Pec12 does nothing, it may be that water will do the job (again used with the Q-tip and hair dryer).

You can look at the Q-tip and see instantly if there is any ink on it - if there is - just repeat the process until you are no longer lifting ink from the print.

Jim Conway
Timemark Photo Conservators

[Doug Nelson]

But always make the best scan you can before attempting anything like this.

[thomasgeorge]

Thanks much for the quick reply. Tom

[Mick B]

Excellent advice all.

Thanks.

Mick

[Bob Walden]

Keep Pec-12 away from Polaroids. Years ago I used some on a crime lab shot and the fingerprint disapeared.

Bob

[DJ Dubovsky]

Yeow! talk about tampering with evidence. Hope it wasn't a capital crime.
That's a good peice of advice for someone who trys the Pec-12 and feels too confident in it's use. I may just get some of that stuff. Sounds great to have on hand.
DJ

[john_opitz]

I'm reading this post late. But the other day a woman came in the studio with a print. Her kid took a magic marker to it. I use a product called "OOOPS!". I've been using it quite a while. Works for me. It's a latex paint remover. White can with red letters. No. Joke.It works without damage to the print. Try it on a print you don't care about, if your worried about the labeling on the can that says "removes dried latex paint".

p.s. you can go with PEC-12 though. Never tried it, myself.

[DJ Dubovsky]

John
Where do you get this stuff "Ooops"? Also, does is specify that it can be used on prints or did you find this out due to experimentation? Sounds pretty good. Might be nice to have a few possibilities on hand for when one doesn't work maybe the other will. Thanks for the tip.
DJ

[Jim Conway]

Originally posted by john_opitz
I'm reading this post late. But the other day a woman came in the studio with a print. Her kid took a magic marker to it. I use a product called "OOOPS!". I've been using it quite a while. Works for me. It's a latex paint remover. White can with red letters. No. Joke.It works without damage to the print. Try it on a print you don't care about, if your worried about the labeling on the can that says "removes dried latex paint".

p.s. you can go with PEC-12 though. Never tried it, myself.

Mind if I recommend sticking to "photo safe" products? While some latex paint removers MAY work on some polypropylene surfaces, I think reading down the line of potential problems you'll find "Damages many plastics and some automotive paints" ...the next time you try it you may come up with a white patch with no emulsion on it!
Sorry to disagree here - but "goof Off", "OOOPS" and other products with the same formulation are not in the same class as (PAT) tested products such as Pec12 for use on photographic emulsions. You've apparently been really lucky so far and with all due respect, if you've used it more than once, I recommend that you switch to something safer while you are ahead!

Jim Conway
Timemark Photo Conservators

[john_opitz]

<John
Where do you get this stuff "Ooops"? Also, does is specify that it can be used on prints or did you find this out due to experimentation? Sounds pretty good. Might be nice to have a few possibilities on hand for when one doesn't work maybe the other will. Thanks for the tip.
DJ>

You can get it at Home Depot. Or some hardware stores.
It does not specify to be used for prints. How I found out on how it works.....? By experimentation. Use a soft cloth and little of it. Almost like a dry sponge, and don't rub hard. Lightly !

[Doug Nelson]

Non-PAT (Photographic Activity Test) tested products can leave behind chemicals which can degrade photos over time. A link describing the test is here

[john_opitz]

<Mind if I recommend sticking to "photo safe" products? While some latex paint removers MAY work on some polypropylene surfaces, I think reading down the line of potential problems you'll find "Damages many plastics and some automotive paints" ...the next time you try it you may come up with a white patch with no emulsion on it!
Sorry to disagree here - but "goof Off", "OOOPS" and other products with the same formulation are not in the same class as (PAT) tested products such as Pec12 for use on photographic emulsions. You've apparently been really lucky so far and with all due respect, if you've used it more than once, I recommend that you switch to something safer while you are ahead!

Jim Conway
Timemark Photo Conservators>

I would recommend that to.., "photo safe" products. But I've done this to hundreds of proofs in the past years with no problem to the finish. Our in-house lab has a nasty habit of putting "X"'s on proofs that they feel should be taken out using a red grease marker, and there's nothing wrong with the proof. Or I should say, some of them . So that's what I use to remove those "X"'s. Bottom line is, if I had PEC-12. I would use that. If I didn't have it? And if I only had the "OOOPS" . I'd use the "OOOPS".
Even if you use PEC-12 or any other product for removing marks from prints that are "photo safe". You still have to be careful using that product on it. You can't rub into it like your digging a hole to China(which I've seen some lab people do). Or let the product sit on the print for hours on end. You have to know what your doing when using any of those products.
And I'm not offended that you disagree with me. That's why we live in America. BTW ! I tried that "GOOF OFF!". Once(test print) ! Didn't work. But the "OOOPS" does. So go figure.
But,no ! I'm not trying to change your mind. Yes,use PEC-12 or another "photo safe" product.

[Doug Nelson]

Unfortunately, the determination of whether a given product ends up being safe might not take place until long after we're gone. Aside from physical damage (ie: rips, tears, scratches, etc.), the entire field of photo restoration exists largely because of products people assumed were safe at the time.

[Lampy]

I agree with Doug. Be sure that any residual chemicals are completely removed from the surface of the image. I have not used either the PEC-12 or OOPS and I don't have any idea if they have been tested for long term effects. Sometimes residual chemicals won't harm the surface initially but over many years changes will occur. The easilest example I can give is finger prints on a photographic emulsion. Initially there is no sign of damage but over the years the oils left on the surface will discolor the image and the finger print will become visible. Oh, always use the least harmful products first so in this case try water on a q-tip before you jump to other solvents. Just be careful and as Jim said use it sparingly and test test test!

--Heather
Tudhope Conservation Studio