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History, Conservation, and Repair The history of photographic prints, and how best to care for and repair them.

daguerreotype repair

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  #31  
Old 01-05-2002, 06:30 PM
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thomasgeorge thomasgeorge is offline
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Good points, Sally. A quick and safe way to determine the difference between tintype and the others is the use of a small magnet. You can feel the "pull" when held over the photo in question if it is a tintype, even if it is still in its case...just be sure to hold the case/photo down..you dont want it actually contacting the magnet. Also, some Ambrotypes consist of two pieces of glass..the one holding the image and a glass "cover" plate. These were usually glued together with Balsam cement which, will crystallize with times passing and produce a dendratic pattern which is often mistaken for mold. Some were produced on dark glass, obviating the need for a dark backing material. Tom

Last edited by thomasgeorge; 01-05-2002 at 11:23 PM.
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  #32  
Old 01-05-2002, 08:00 PM
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Ed_L Ed_L is offline
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Sally,

Good info for sure. One thing that I'd like to point out is that not every one of them is a mirror image. If you have the book "Conservation of Photographs", take a look at the examples of the ambrotypes. There are at least two (maybe three) where you are able to read signs or a book binder. I'm pretty sure that's where I saw it. Tom, you have the book. How 'bout checking that out for us?

Ed
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  #33  
Old 01-05-2002, 10:32 PM
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I believe that the Ambrotypes are negatives, appearing positive because of the darkened back, done with either dark glass ( as the support) or black backing of some sort. I checked the book mentioned and a couple others but couldnt find the examples Ed mentioned. Will do a bit more looking. Tom

Last edited by thomasgeorge; 01-05-2002 at 11:27 PM.
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  #34  
Old 01-06-2002, 05:21 AM
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Ed_L Ed_L is offline
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Tom,

Thanks for checking, but don't put yourself through much trouble. I'll be going to one of the larger libraries within the next few days. I'll see if I can find the book I saw that in. I noticed it right away because I wasn't expecting to see a now normal image. I'm almost positive it was in one of the books you told me about, but I guess I don't remember the name of it. Thanks again for your trouble. I'll report back when (if) I find it.

Ed
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  #35  
Old 01-06-2002, 06:25 AM
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Ed_L Ed_L is offline
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Tom,

Sorry for the mistake. I have "Conservation of Photographs" myself, and have had it for years. The book I found that in was the one that mentions the color dags. If you remember which book that is, take a quick look if you have time. Otherwise I'll make the trip to the library.

Ed
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  #36  
Old 01-06-2002, 09:27 AM
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thomasgeorge thomasgeorge is offline
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Actually, I apologise for not being quite clear...while the Ambrotype is an underexposed negative, by placing the dark backing material over the collodian image containing layer ( essentially "flipping"), the image appears as a positive..no lateral reversal, unlike the Dag.. This is possible because of the image support layer..glass for the Ambrotype vs. metal for the Dag and tintype. The Ambro's are actually a form of wet plate glass negative. Depending on which side of the plate the dark backing is applied to the image will be either laterally reversed or not, but will appear as a positive regardless. Just the lateral details are either correctly oriented or not. Tom

Last edited by thomasgeorge; 01-06-2002 at 09:50 AM.
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  #37  
Old 05-30-2009, 04:08 PM
bygonedays50 bygonedays50 is offline
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Smile Re: daguerreotype repair

Can anyone give me info on finding a company online where I am able to order repair tape for the fabric hinges on a union photo case? Thanks, SMP
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  #38  
Old 08-16-2017, 05:45 PM
Ian Scott Ian Scott is offline
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Re: daguerreotype repair

Although I am new to this forum, my first reaction was that this is not a dag at all but an ambrotype as your mother found that the image was on the glass itself (not on a metal plate). If she removed the image from the case and discovered that the image was on underside of the glass itself - then this is an ambrotype. Ambrotypes depend on the two parts - the faint image on the glass itself and the plain black painted metal surface below the glass to provide the blacks and darker tones when viewed through the glass. There can be loss of image quality if that black surface has become dusty. Gentle removing dust from the painted black surface can be successful in cleaning the black surface and regaining sharper black tones. Opening the sealed case though is the real issue as the glass can easily crack and then the image is permanently damaged. One option on repairing the damage currently done to the image - as it has already been opened - you could gently clean the black metal with a fine brush to remove an dust from the metal and reassemble it so you can photograph it, then do digital repairs. Posting a question to an ambrotype thread might give some solutions if the black surface has major issues itself - there may also be people with experience dealing with the glass part of ambrotypes.
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