You're right, Gary, I am looking for a set and forget sollution, but since I'm a realistic person, and thus must accept the fact such a solution can not be found, I am looking for the shortest route to get there.
Going through 20 pics is going to be quite a hectic thing, and I'm trying to save me the effort, and cut time-costs to a bare minimum.
This is a VERY unusual fault. The light leak is in the middle of the film. This rules out light from a faulty cassette. As the leak is wavy it also rules out a problem with the camera back. I have been repairing cameras for 30 years and I’ve only seen this type of problem with a fault in the shutter. If one of the shutter blades is damaged ie off its tracks or a rivet missing or a hole in the shutter blind then light can be hitting the film while the camera is being wound on and this can cause a wavy pattern similar to your contact sheet.
(It’s usually a diagonal but it depends on the camera model)
IF I am correct then:-
The waves should all follow a pattern. They will just vary in intensity caused by light at the time the camera was wound on and the mirror return.
Your answer lies in images 5400 and 5401 which have formed natural masks.
These 2 unexposed images have created perfect templates of the leak.
All you should need to do is invert these and use them as layer masks then vary their intensity to repair the problem.
You need to check your camera shutter carefully as the problem will reoccur until the camera is repaired.
Hmm, that makes perfect sense...
Wow, Ken, that's an excellent idea!
I should have thought of using those two images as masks. How silly of me.
As for your observation regarding the cause of this fault... It makes perfect sense. My shutter has been known to get stuck evry once in a while, but so far, all images came out ok. This is the first time I have seen such a defect.
I will have to wait for thedevelopement of the current film in the camera to know if the shutter is indeed faulty (other than its lagging, of course) before I go try fixing it.
This is an "old" Canon Elan IIe, and I'm in the process of getting Rebel 350, or something of that magnitude, so I don't want to spend that much in fixing this one.
Back to our diagnostics: The two "blank" shots are at the beginning of the film, which means it was exposed prior to the shutter being opened, doesn't it? Since it would have been wraped around the rod by the time the first shot was taken. This means it had to be exposed after the whole roll was shot, and the film was being rewind back into the canister. But, if that's the case, shouldn't the line be a straight one, and not wavy, since the source of light is straight on the film, and the film is flat?
A wavy line suggests it was exposed AFTER the film was already back in the canister, having a source of light expose it from one, narrow, specific angle.
Can this be a fault of the people at the developement center? I doubt they do it manually there, so maybe it was a faulty machine? I'm not too familiar with the process of commercial film developement, but I'm pretty sure the people there don't handle the films personally. Am I wrong?
I'd love to hear your input on these.
Thanks again for your excellent feedback, Ken!
"Good job cspringer, it came out a little too blueish, compared to the original, but I like the idea you simply "painted" the white out."
It isn't on the original I did. I was having a hard time getting the resolution correct for this site. However, even if this is the problem with your attempt (if you try it), all you have to do is add a Hue/Sat. adjustment layer to tweak the color to your liking. It isn't "painting" ...that is just the term people used for Paint with Light...it is a dodge and burn technique.
Last edited by cspringer; 06-06-2005 at 09:58 PM.
I'm attaching a snapshot of my workflow and here are the values of Levels and Hue&Saturation AL ...
Levels Adjustment Layer
composite (RGB) channel
Input: 0 , 0.66 , 255
Input: 50 , 0.64 , 255
Input: 65 , 0.77, 241
Input: 60 , 0.47 , 221
Hue/Saturation Adjustment Layer
Blank Overlay layer (soft black brush - opacity 10% - to further darken middle right side) ...
That's all I did ...
I could send you the fixed image by email ... haven't got a clue about what imageShack is .... .... If you didn't provide an email address when you registered, go to my profile and send me an email from there so I'll have your address ....
thanks for your kindness... I know you didn't suggest that .. .... I expressed myself badly ... I was having doubts even about partially autofixing such different pictures and having to tweak contrast and colours... this because, maybe, in the next picture Brightness&Contrast + Selective Colors might do the trick ....
I know you would like "some sort of auto fix" and it still could be possible .. I would like to try it on different pictures of yours to see if it works so I could write an action... BTW ... which version of PS do you use?
The Elan is known as the EOS in UK. When you close the camera back the camera makes a couple of blank exposures to get past the exposed film and transports the film to number one.
If there is a hole in the shutter then these will not be ‘Blank exposures’ and I think this is what you are seeing here.
It is very easy on some of the Canons to dislodge one of the shutter leaves and they come off their tracks. The repair is cheap and easy if this is all that’s happened. But if the damage is more serious then a new shutter is required.
The ONLY way you can get a curved or diagonal line on the negatives is if the light leak and the film are moving together. This can not happen in the rewinding. It can only happen while the shutter is resetting and the film is transporting forwards.
I have seen wavy lines from the development But this is usually when the films are hand processed. But these are never even like yours seem to be.
One other thing, I still don’t think you will be able to automate this repair as there are too many variables. The light will vary each time and if you replaced the lens cap quickly then the mark will stop altogether.
It makes me laugh what can be achieved now. 10 years ago I would have had to take these negs into the darkroom. Make a wavy cardboard cutout to use as a mask and try to balance this under my enlarger while trying to guess the exposures.
Now I can repair Pictures in America without even standing up
Also, wouldn't the waves be identical (or almost identical) in all images, instead of continuing each other as a pattern?
The more I think about it, the more I'm getting the feeling that someone screwed up in the developement center. But I may be just being paranoic about it.
thank you for the detailed info, and for even posting a screenshot of it. Using Ken's idea, you might have better luck at this using one of the "blanks", so I have included those, as well as several other photos for you, at the bottom.
I'm using the latest and greatest of PS - PS CS2. It's quite a nice tool, and is far better than the first CS.
I have provided an email address when I signed up, but I'd prefer if you use my Gmail one, which is my nickname at gmail.com.
You can't even imagine how happy I am for all your great help with my photo(s). You're saving me SOOO much grief and sorrow, not to mention time!
Anyways, here are more shots of the horrid film:
(Feel free to not touch any of them, if you don't feel like it. )
• Refrence 1
• Refrence 2
You might even be able to use the image below as a refrence for the wave in some of the above photos.
this photo is a reorganized view of the contact sheet, which makes the wave more visible and clear. Notice that in some photos the curvature is up, while in others it is down?
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