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  #11  
Old 11-16-2005, 12:45 AM
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roger_ele roger_ele is offline
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Hey Twinkissed - for a fast job awesome!

Thought I would mention some techniques - I have Photoshop and don't have/know GIMP, so hopefully this translates ...

To answer the question on how to get a channel into a layer you could ...
-turn off the eyeballs on the other channels then convert to greyscale
-I think select all, then copy, switch to a new layer and paste (I never use copy/paste but I hear some people mention it)
-Use Apply Image to paste a channel into a new layer (GIMP may have something similar)
-Channel mixer adjustment layer with monocrome checked

I would look long and hard at the original to see what the bulges are doing to the shape - his left eye (right side of photo) slants counter clockwise more radically than normal variations in face shapes. It makes me think that it is the bulging paper.

-dup layer so as to have an original to compare with or use peices of if needed
-Levels adjustment layer, set white and black point to bring up to normal tonal range

Then all on duped 'work' layer - this is the best way I have found to get past the mess and still keep the texture and detail of the original photo .... make sure that 'sample all layers' is unchecked!

-Clone tool blend mode set on lighten at 100%, pick a dark line that you know is damage and sample from right next to one end, (if there is a gradation sample from the darker side of the line so that you do not overlighten) and paint over the line. In lighten mode the only thing that will be affected is the dark line. Keep this up until all obvious dark spots are removed. The trick is carefully picking the souce points.

-Clone tool set on darken and do the same thing in reverse to the light spots.

You will end up with faint damage that is blendable/cloneable - whatever your favorite technique is for fixing faint damage - without turning it all to smudge mush ...

Regards,
Roger
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  #12  
Old 11-16-2005, 07:37 AM
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twinkissed twinkissed is offline
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Thanks everyone I don't have Gimp so I'm not 100% sure on this plugin but you may want to read into this and see if it would help for the CMYK or do a search on Gimp and CMYK to see if there are other options available. http://www.blackfiveservices.co.uk/separate.shtml I found it while searching on CMYK & Gimp.

If not I would use RGB and keep the green channel, then convert to greyscale. Then do a curves or level adjustment. Not sure what exactly they use in Gimp for this but something to bring the image out more but not too contrasted. As for the poloroid dust and scratch filter... I use the photoshop program but it also installed a standalone program which I have used in the past. Maybe that will help you.
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  #13  
Old 11-16-2005, 10:09 AM
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philbach philbach is offline
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Where to Start

I did find that cymk offered the best initial color and used color mixter. I separated the boy from the background. Levels, healing brushes, and eventually painted in the eyes.

I reconstructed the background.
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File Type: jpg Mk3.jpg (42.0 KB, 89 views)
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  #14  
Old 11-16-2005, 03:13 PM
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bart_hickman bart_hickman is offline
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Just a thought

I wonder if you turn the picture over and scan in the back side (which should just be plain white with the inverse crease pattern). Then you'll have an inverted scan of the creases. Then maybe if you burn the original with that and it might even out your picture and get you closer to the finished product. Alternatively, maybe you can invert and adjust the backside scan and then subtract it from the original. I'm just thinking out loud.

Bart
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  #15  
Old 11-16-2005, 08:13 PM
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Cameraken Cameraken is offline
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Twinkissed and Phil. Great job.

I was waiting for Carpman to post a rescan before I tried this.
Are you going to post a rescan Carpman?

Bart.
That’s a great bit of lateral thinking.
But if you have the picture to scan the back then you may as well scan it in right. Even if your idea worked the problem is that the picture would still be distorted as Roger has already mentioned.

However you got me thinking.

What if we can’t rescan it?

An inverted layer would be very similar.
Now if we could create a mask to affect just the marks then you may just be onto something.
This is worth some thought. (Decrack action springs to mind to make a mask) I’ll give this some more thought.

Ken.
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  #16  
Old 11-17-2005, 01:17 AM
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bart_hickman bart_hickman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cameraken
Bart.
That’s a great bit of lateral thinking.
But if you have the picture to scan the back then you may as well scan it in right. Even if your idea worked the problem is that the picture would still be distorted as Roger has already mentioned.
You're right, of course. When I posted this idea, the excellent idea of rescanning the photo at 0, 90, 180, 270 degrees hadn't clicked yet. That's obviously the best way to go--just taking the mean of the four scans should get rid of the shadows leaving "only" the scratches.

Bart
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  #17  
Old 11-17-2005, 07:19 AM
carpman carpman is offline
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Thanks for all your replies, lot of ideas many i will have to try and convert to gimp method.

Will do some rescans this evening, will do 4 x90 degrees and one of the back.

All the work you have shown can be done leaves me lot to live up

I will try and rise to the challenge.


I have attached an image that was 2 scans at 180 degrees, these were:

Blended 50%
flattened
adjusted levels and curves
duplicated layer
top layer was destraturated,inverted then overlay blended 50%
convert greyscale
deinterlaced
despeckled

Also second third are 2 scans at 180 degrees


Still got to get my head around using channels


Also any advice on settings when doing actual scan itself?

many thanks.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2scan-blended-edited.jpg (95.5 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg mick-001.jpg (92.1 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg mick001-b.jpg (92.2 KB, 30 views)

Last edited by carpman; 11-17-2005 at 07:41 AM.
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  #18  
Old 11-17-2005, 09:25 AM
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Racc Iria Racc Iria is offline
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Carpman...

I'm curious why you deinterlaced the image. Deinterlacing deletes every other line of pixels and then reinterpolates that data from whats left. In essence you're destroying half of the precious little detail you have in the image to work with.

Deinterlacing is really only necessary when the source of the image is from an interlaced medium, such as television and the field lines are obvious. Scanning the image will not result in an interlaced image. There should be no need to deinterlace.

--Racc
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  #19  
Old 11-17-2005, 11:29 AM
carpman carpman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racc Iria
Carpman...

I'm curious why you deinterlaced the image. Deinterlacing deletes every other line of pixels and then reinterpolates that data from whats left. In essence you're destroying half of the precious little detail you have in the image to work with.

Deinterlacing is really only necessary when the source of the image is from an interlaced medium, such as television and the field lines are obvious. Scanning the image will not result in an interlaced image. There should be no need to deinterlace.

--Racc

opps learn something new every day
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  #20  
Old 11-17-2005, 02:26 PM
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Nanls Nanls is offline
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This trick works with photos that are black and white of have little color range. Take the photo and duplicate it. Move the bottom layer over and down a couple of pixels, and with the eraser set at maybe 50% oppacity,start to erase the hard lines and the photo below will show through to fix the scratches. Then with a n ew layer and with the "use all layers " clicked on, use the clone tool to fill in more... If you don't like a place simply erase it on the top layer... I just did a spot (and didn't finish it due to time restaints). But if you give it some time it could come out nicely.

~Nancy~
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