How to take a good picture of a picture to be restored

dipech · #1 07-08-2003, 09:20 PM

Let's say you are trying to take a picture of a 11x17 picture or painting to use for restoring the picture. (Sometimes it's either too big or in too fragile condition to be scanned.) Is there a way to avoid getting major glare coming from the camera? If you shoot without the flash will you get all the detail you need?

I had to do this recently with a film camera and no matter whether I took the pictures indoors or out, or how well it all seemed to look in the viewfinder, I had major glare ruining all the shots. Each shot had the glare in a different spot and I tried to use the best parts of each picture for my restoration, but of course this is not the way to do it.

Thought I'd post one of the pics to give you a better idea what I'm talking about:

(This issue was raised and discussed briefly at the end of my earlier thread, "A real challenge, yellowed tape covering over half of face," but so that others can more easily find and also benefit from the information, I am starting this new thread.)

Mike · #2 07-08-2003, 09:53 PM

The "glare" looks like silvering to me. A common problem with old black and whites that are slowly coming apart. So what to do?

Either film or digital is OK (asuming that the digital camera has enough file size to use) but digital is easier because you do not have to scan the negative to get the image into the computer.

Lighting should be at a 45 degree angle from either side and should be balanced so its even.

Use double polorized light (thats with a polorizing filter over the lens and also over each light source. Turn the lens filter so that the glare disappears)

I find that this technique works very well not only for silvered prints, but also for paintings. However on paintings sometimes the artist would like a little reflection, so by adjusting the lens filter you can leave a little in the image.

Try it, you will like it!

Mike

Doug Nelson · #3 07-09-2003, 05:52 AM

There are a couple of good threads on this here. Here's one.

The idea is basically you want diffused non-directional light, keep the camera parallel to the image, and use a high enough resolution digital camera or slide scanner.

An overcast day is a good example of lighting, although there are plenty of indoor techniques. A polarizing filter can help.

dipech · #4 07-09-2003, 09:08 PM

Thanks, Doug for your reply and posting the link. I am rather overwhelmed sorting through all the different comments and suggestions at the moment from that link but what you wrote here seems to be the main points to keep in mind.

When you say 'keep the camera parallel with the image' do you mean keep it at the same level, neither higher or lower?

Mike,

The original has no glare at all, so not sure if you're right about the "silvering." What is a silvered print??

I'm pretty sure that the pic I posted above was taken while looking down at the picture on the ground, outside on a mildly sunny late afternoon day and I think that's what caused the glare. Plus I was using a flash.

Thanks,
Diane

Doug Nelson · #5 07-09-2003, 10:15 PM

Diane: It's just important that the film plane (be it actual film, or the digital CCD) is kept parallel with the image being photographed. Otherwise you'll end up with distortion called "keystoning", where one edge is actually slightly larger than the opposite edge in the recorded image.

Mike · #6 07-10-2003, 11:35 AM

Diane

If your flash was mounted on the camera, that is part of the problem. Remember light follows the "angle of incidence equals angle of reflection" rule. Ever try to take a photograph of a person standing in front of a large window? If you are at a 90 degree angle with the glass didn't you get a large glare back from the glass? Prints will do the same, especially glossy types or the ones with silvering.

Silvering is a condition old prints get into when they start to decompose. Remember that the image you see is a layer of silver in the emulsion. The easy test is to take the print in your hand and slowly move it back and forth so the angle of the light changes as you view it. If there is silvering, you will see a reflection on the surface of the print as you move it. It will look very similier to the reflection on the bottom of the sample you posted.

There are several books on the techniques of copying. Kodak used to have a really good one that went into film and filter choices etc. Most of these books will have diagrams and photos of how and why you should set up your camera and lights. I do not know if it is still in print or not. A trip to your local library might be worth the time.

Mike