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  #11  
Old 04-15-2004, 02:54 PM
BonnieN BonnieN is offline
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See why I have learned more from RP than Katrin's book. Thanks Rexx for clarifying that part for me because I sure have been doing everything else first before I convert it to greyscale.
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  #12  
Old 04-15-2004, 03:01 PM
Vikki Vikki is offline
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Katrin is correct, but there's more to it. The original scan should be in color so that you may evaluate the different color channels. There are processes you can use at this point to help you get the most information from the image. It is after this has been done, that you can go ahead and convert to grayscale.
Regarding the profiles, I would stick with sRGB, but it really depends on what you intend to do with your photos. For posting them on the web, sRGB is what is recommended. For printing, you should use a profile that works with your printer.
Here's is how mine is set up (I find that sRGB gives me the best results for web, inkjet and commercial printing).
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  #13  
Old 04-15-2004, 04:28 PM
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Rexx Rexx is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vikki
The original scan should be in color so that you may evaluate the different color channels.
This is important, since it's not until you have the image safely in Photoshop that you can evaluate whether scanning in colour provided anything extra. Besides, the tools for converting from colour to B&W in Photoshop are always better than the ones in the scanner software.

I've also checked, and the three channels actually aren't identical. However, the differences do not contain useful image detail, only revealing JPEG processing artefacts.

If you read the truly e-x-c-e-l-l-e-n-t tutorial about Meta-images you will learn how to compare the channels. I created difference channels R-G, R-B and G-B with an offset of 127. Then I did a Levels with [120, 134] on all three to make the differences visible at all. This is the Red minus Green meta-image.

PS: Hey folks, is this the first useful application of meta-images?
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  #14  
Old 04-16-2004, 03:05 AM
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Rexx Rexx is offline
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Katrin Eismann examples

Hi Bonnie,

I paged through the book (2nd edition), and found some good examples of when you definitely should work in colour on what seems to be B&W.

See the following pages (there are others)
53, 175, 179, 181
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  #15  
Old 04-16-2004, 06:21 AM
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Leah Leah is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonnieN
I did however picked up a tip here about how you can do an adjustment layer using hue and saturation and and turn your image into a greyscale but pulling the saturation to -100. The only problem I've found if I do this before I use the cloning or healing tool is the old color shows up when I go to clone.
If you're doing it this way then make sure that your hue/saturation adjustment layer is always the top layer - i.e. if you're creating new layers and cloning, etc., on to them then make sure that those layers are on top of your original but below the hue/saturation layer. Then you won't have the problem with the old color.

If you did find that one (or two) of the channels is damaged so doing a hue/sat adjustment layer still leaves the damage showing, you can achieve a similar result with a Channel Mixer adjustment layer with Monochrome checked and selecting a combination of the undamaged channels that adds up to 100%.
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  #16  
Old 04-16-2004, 07:10 AM
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Flora Flora is offline
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Hi Bonnie,

.... hope you are not too confused ....

...Anyway .... here you can find an excellent Tutorial on 'Converting a color image to black and white'

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  #17  
Old 04-16-2004, 07:46 AM
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Rexx Rexx is offline
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Tip ot Tutorial on this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Leah
If you're doing it this way then make sure that your hue/saturation adjustment layer is always the top layer
Leah, I've several times run into this problem and haven't understood it properly. I've had some adjustment levels here and there, and when I work on a layer, things do not happen as I expect.

If you explain it in this thread, the answer will be lost forever, but if it's a properly titled tip, I (and others!) might be able to find it later

Please?
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  #18  
Old 04-16-2004, 08:04 AM
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Flora Flora is offline
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Instead of 'dragging' an adjustment Layer on top of all the others during all your work of restoration, whenever you have reached a satisfying point, you could also Merge Visible:
  • Create a new empty Layer on top of all the others.
  • Open your Layers Palette's Menu and, keeping the Alt key pressed, click on 'Merge Visible'.

A new Layer containing all your corrections will be created on top of all the other Layers containing each single step you took before. ....

This procedure enables you to carry on with your restoration from your advanced point... without losing any of the previous steps/Layers... thus giving you the possibility to retrace your steps and making changes wherever necessary.... even after you've 'finished' the job....
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  #19  
Old 04-16-2004, 08:43 AM
BonnieN BonnieN is offline
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Vicki:
I'm still learning about how profiles work. From what I read when you calibrate your monitor to your printer you would use that profile when working in photoshop. Is that wrong? What I did was calibrate my monitor using colorvison spyder pro. Then I printed out a color sample on a HP CMYK commerical printer I have access too and copied those colors in to create a profile and that is the profile I have listed under working space. I have the book Photoshop Color Correction but I tend to get lost when reading it. Is there another book or tutorial that you would recommend that would better explain profiles?

Rexx:
I already had pages 175, 179 and 181 bookmarked. And now 53 is. I'm still learning about what all can be done in channels and even had a picture I worked on that had ink scribbles all over it and was able to remove it following the techniques on page 181.

Leah:
That is what I do. Keep the hue/saturation adjustment layer on top but I have to turn off that layer because if I don't then my picture is in black and white but when I use the cloning or healing tool the color that appears is the color I had before I added the adjustment layer. I'm still learning about what all I can do in channels and with the channel mixer. I'm with Rexx ... I would love a tutorial on this!

Flora:
Not to confused. I'm just so thankful y'all are willing to help and lead me in the right direction. Thanks for the tip also. I will have to give that a try. I thought I had read all of the turorials on RP but I missed the one you linked me too. Thank you! And thank you Leah for the tutorial!

Thanks again for all the input!
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  #20  
Old 04-16-2004, 09:08 AM
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Leah Leah is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonnieN
Keep the hue/saturation adjustment layer on top but I have to turn off that layer because if I don't then my picture is in black and white but when I use the cloning or healing tool the color that appears is the color I had before I added the adjustment layer.
Whereabouts in the stack is the layer onto which you are cloning? Because if it's under the adjustment layer then it shouldn't work that way... if the hue/sat layer is the topmost layer then you shouldn't get any color appearing if you're doing stuff on the layers below it. How strange...
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