Calibration: NEC P221W Hardware Calibration? (Spyder Pro 3)

[YoungRetoucher]

Hi,
So my new monitor arrived but I'm a bit lost. What do I do in Spyder 3 Pro? What settings do I change using the screen menu (Brightness, Mode etc)? Sorry for being such a noob, at school I never had to do calibrations from Scratch myself!

[YoungRetoucher]

PS: I also have an issue since calibration where the "Save for Web & Devices" preview in photoshop always displays my image like I went crazy and cranked up the reds... When I am working on the image in photoshop it looks OK but in the save preview it's awful...

[creativeretouch]

You should follow manual coming with your calibration software or device and you should also find some instructions how to set up your "Edit/Color Settings" and "Save for Web" in Photoshop. This isn't easy but I am sure you will find plenty of instructions here on RetouchPro or via Google … it takes time to understand and learn how to apply these settings properly ...

Regards, Filip
-------------------------------------------------------
http://shotworldwide.com & http://photoapps.info

[YoungRetoucher]

Hi, thanks for your reply!

The instructions don't actually explain how to perform a hardware calibration vs profiling. There are also so many different settings to choose from! How do I know which is the most appropriate way to go for a retoucher who doesn't print anything himself?

I have looked around the net and they all say that you should calibrate to get as close as possible to your printer or local photo lab's prints. What if you have clients who all print things out themselves? What if you're doing a job for a magazine? You are hardly going to re-calibrate in a different way every time are you? Especially if you are working several jobs at the same time. So what's the best "General Purpose" calibration?

[andrewrodney]

Originally Posted by YoungRetoucher

PS: I also have an issue since calibration where the "Save for Web & Devices" preview in photoshop always displays my image like I went crazy and cranked up the reds... When I am working on the image in photoshop it looks OK but in the save preview it's awful...

Because the web browser isn’t color managed like Photoshop.

As to the settings, this might get you started:

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tu...too_dark.shtml

[YoungRetoucher]

Thanks Andrew.

Here is what I did, could you tell me if this is the right way to do it? I put the display in Programmable Mode instead of sRGB or N. Then I connected my Spyder 3 Pro, accepted the standard values they suggested, lowered my display luminosity to 120cd, left the monitor contrast at 50% and that's it. Did I do a hardware calibration? I'm not sure? Was Programmable the right mode to use? When I turn on the MAC computer the screen color temperature seems off until after login when it seems to correct itself.

PS: I think there is a very very slight green tinge to the screen when I look at it from an angle also...

[andrewrodney]

It is right if the screen and print match. The actual settings are immaterial.

[YoungRetoucher]

Originally Posted by andrewrodney

It is right if the screen and print match. The actual settings are immaterial.

I don't have any means of printing at the moment. But is the procedure in itself correct? Or should I have calibrated using the standard N mode?

[andrewrodney]

I know you don’t want sRGB mode and I suspect N mode too. Was the default out of the box neither? If so, I think you’re good.

[YoungRetoucher]

Thanks again Andrew.

N mode was the default (Native). I chose Programmable because that sounded like the mode for calibration but I really don't know. There's also Opt 1 mode which sets the white point to clear base and Opt 2 which sets it to blue base. Then there's several K modes with sRGB mode being the 6500K mode (I think?).

I'm also very confused about black level and contrast, to what percentage do I leave this when calibrating? Both are at 50% at the moment.

[andrewrodney]

You want Programable if you are using MultiPROFILER or using hardware calibration.


sRGB
Standard color space used for the Internet, Windows operating systems and digital cameras. Recommended setting for general color management.
Adobe®RGB
Provides a standard color space used in high-end graphics applications such as professional digital still cameras and imaging.
DCI
Color setting for digital cinema.
REC-Bt709
Color setting for High-definition television.
HIGH BRIGHT
Factory setting. Highest brightness setting. Provides lowest power consumption when kept at factory setting.
FULL
Native display color gamut. Suitable for use with color managed applications. Use ICC color profile included in the enclosed CD-ROM.
DICOM
Medical settings for X-ray imaging view. Setting that conforms to the DICOM standard for the Grayscale Standard Display Function.
PROGRAMMABLE
For “MultiProfiler” software or the Hardware Calibration settings (some OSD settings are disabled).

[andrewrodney]

I'm also very confused about black level and contrast, to what percentage do I leave this when calibrating?

Like white point, luminance, you would adjust to match a print.

[YoungRetoucher]

So what do I want to use if I am using Spyder 3 Pro?

[kav]

Originally Posted by YoungRetoucher

So what do I want to use if I am using Spyder 3 Pro?

These are mostly questions that should be asked prior to purchasing hardware, not after. Without getting into an excessive explanation, unless they changed something recently, you can't hardware calibrate using that software. It would require spectraview. I've had better luck with X-rite than Spyder.

You're looking for a generic starting point, and you will have to realize this allows you a very limited level of control. If you can accept that and you're going for an approximation, run a profile after giving the monitor at least 30 minutes to warm up. Keep the spyder plugged in for at least 10 minutes before you profile. Try around 100 cd/m2. Don't mess with contrast or black levels unless you're trying to fix an issue. Considering the lack of hardware calibration with that software, don't touch them at all. Just leave them alone. White point native or D65 if that is problematic. Run a print at any lab if you don't have your own printer. They won't all be the same. Just run something to make sure it's not obviously way different from what you're seeing on screen. Do not expect a perfect match.

Also keep the lighting in your work area to a minimum at all times. It should be pretty dark.

If you want perfect, you're most likely looking at a small desktop viewing table for print illumination, wide format printer + RIP, etc. Then you are able to send out prints that show exactly how it should look. Without that you are approximating. Spending a few hundred on a display doesn't really change much. It just (hopefully) makes things easier to view as you can at least hit 'visually' neutral grey tones and a brightness range that isn't obviously too bright to be printed on any paper type.

That's the best I can describe it. It won't be perfect. My point was that the full brightness of these displays is well beyond what any paper can hit.

[YoungRetoucher]

I understand now I didn't understand Spyder 3 was not for hardware calibration! Thanks! Sorry for being such a noob at calibration until now all I had to do at school was plug in the device and check the calibration but never do a full calibration myself.

So basically unless I get Spectraview II my best best is Native mode with low brightness, correct?

If I had the cash, would this be what I need for hardware calibration? Is it compatible with my monitor?

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...ectraView.html