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Input/Output/Workflow Scanning, printing, color management, and discussing best practices for control and repeatability

ICC Color Profile for Fuji Frontier MiniLab

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  #11  
Old 09-11-2002, 06:44 PM
charles charles is offline
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I use the Fuji colour space and save the files with the Fuji profile.
I take my files into the printers on CD. I have to use the kiosk in the shop, therefor the files on the CD are not affected by what the operator does, the photographs simply get printed. If I take a film in, the operator can change certain things like brightness, contrast etc before the pics are printed.

As for turning the colour managment off, try it, it may just work.
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  #12  
Old 07-10-2005, 12:35 PM
alan hurton alan hurton is offline
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Which fuji site? I've been trying to find the profile for the fuji at my local Asda

Quote:
Originally Posted by charles
I downloaded the profiles for my local labs Fuji Frontier 330/800 from the Fuji website.
Last week I had some wedding pics printed and they were really poor, way too contrasty. I went home and checked the embedded profiles on the CD and they were wrong. I resaved the images this time with the correct profile, burnt them onto another CD and went back to the shop for reprints. BINGO! Perfect prints that match my monitor. The monitor is setup correctly for photo work. Gamma, brightness, contrast yada yada yada.
Charles
Which Fuji site please? i've been trying to get the profile of the fuji frontier in my local asda
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  #13  
Old 05-28-2006, 02:29 AM
owen owen is offline
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Fuji Frontier profiles

I live in England and have tried to use a company that uses Fuji Frontiers, they have some information on their site see belo:-

"Do you support profiles for Fuji Frontiers?
It is important to note that the Fuji Frontier printers currently strip out any embedded profiles in your images, so you should ensure that your images are submitted in sRGB. You can also use our calibration print to adjust your screen to match our output as closely as possible (see above)."

So it would seem that using the profile wouldn't make much difference.

Here is the link

http://www2.fujifilm.co.uk/colour/generic_profiles/
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  #14  
Old 06-30-2006, 04:42 PM
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tlooknbill tlooknbill is offline
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I've been researching this for quite sometime working with a Noritsu and a Frontier. This is what has worked for me.

If you edit in AdobeRGB you'll need the full version of PS to do conversions or if you're on a Mac there are scripts you can find on the most Mac install CD's in the Colorsync Extras folder that will do the conversion if using Elements. Look for the script that says Matching in the name.

That said no matter what profile you get all of these printers will drift in color cast tint and between models and paper types will have varying grayramp density distribution characteristics that won't match exactly your 2.2 gamma grayramp. It will be evident in how shadow detail ramps out of black and highlites get blown out from white.

The cast drift will be most pronounced in fleshtones and mid grays and change within a week's time. Other primary type colors will look pretty much the same. The casts in fleshtones can go from yellowish orange to maroonish to bluish to greenish depending on the model and locality. At low volumns during the week it could be yellowish orange at high volumns like on weekends maroonish blue.

But it's consistant. The Noritsu I use locally has drifted this way for two years like clockwork where I have two DryCreekPhoto.com profiles that emulate these two casts by temporarily assigning it to an sRGB test file I had printed with no operator color corrections. The sRGB test target consists of a grayramp and gradients of the six 255RGB display primaries and several indoor/outdoor bridal photos of varying fleshtone colors. The assigned profile that makes the test image look like the print is the one I convert to from AdobeRGB. You must have an accurately calibrated display to get this kind of precise predictability. Eyeball calibrators aren't accurate enough if you have an LCD.

Editing in the printer space by loading it in Color Settings or assigning it to the image will not guarantee the best results because you won't know which way the printer will lean that day and you can exaggerate the misalignment by editing in the already bumpy fingerprinted environment of a table based printer space. To see what I mean assign the printer profile to a grayramp and notice the banding and color crossover anomolies. It's a nasty space.

There is a generic clean table based printer profile called PhotoGamutRGB on the web that takes advantage of these types of printer's gamut while maintaining perfectly neutral grayramp when assigned to an sRGB image. It can also be safely used as an editing space, but if you send that file to a printer that isn't as prestine as this profile you might get unexpected results just as you would sending sRGB. It might be subtle or it might be glaring. Always run a 4x6 sRGB test print and assign your printer profile to check for differences.

However, if you're not too picky unlike me and you don't mind fleshtones without a color cast just sending an sRGB file may suffice. It's hit or miss, though.
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  #15  
Old 07-01-2006, 08:03 PM
cinderella cinderella is offline
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Cast drift in a week's time. Hadn't thought about that. Makes sense. Thanks for pointing that out.
Do you think this occurs with online labs like Mpix?????
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  #16  
Old 07-01-2006, 11:27 PM
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tlooknbill tlooknbill is offline
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No way to tell unless you run a test target which I always do. It only costs me 19¢ to print a 4x6 glossy and takes an hour but it pays off if you print a bunch afterward.

There's also an alternative that's not perfect but can work in a pinch to avoid having to edit or search for another suitable profile for a printer that has drifted mainly toward the cool maroon/bluish side which can ruin fleshtones. I use perceptual intent converting to the profile already at hand. It seems to inject more yellow/orange and lightens the overall tone of the image at least it does with my local Noritsu. I've noticed from examining profiles made for other Frontiers and some Noritsu's the effect isn't always the same.

I've provided a screenshot of scans of my Noritsu prints showing the maroonish/blue drift with a Soft Proof of a Noritsu perceptual conversion preview and how it can correct for it. The image at the bottom depicts promo prints of my restoration work with the upper right image showing the blue cast shift, the lower left showing the Soft Proof preview in perceptual and the lower right showing the print result.

http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?pi...cbfMZZgOE5u4V0
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  #17  
Old 07-02-2006, 10:49 AM
cinderella cinderella is offline
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Darling expressive baby!!!
On my computer the top right photo and the bottom right photo are much the same.
The bottom left photo looks great.
So I'm confused. Did you like the bottom right?
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  #18  
Old 07-02-2006, 01:02 PM
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tlooknbill tlooknbill is offline
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The bottom right is what I was aiming for and the top right should look bluer and a bit darker. My display still calibrates to sRGB specs according to my EyeOne Display puck calibrator so I know exactly what I'm seeing.

BTW that's my aunt circa '64 and one of my first self taught restoration projects circa '98-99. Getting the color right without understanding calibration and color management took up 85% of the time spent on most of my restoration work back then. I will never doubt the importance of CM technology.

I've supplied a revised version showing the original sRGB image I was trying to match to. I'm having trouble predicting and shooting for the 100K file size limit selecting the right jpeg compression levels and it's been quite confusing. The file size shown in PS's jpeg dialog box, the download size off of pixentral shown at the bottom of IE browser window, the RetouchPro upload size and uncompressed size on my HD are all different.

I've given it another try and setting compression at "6 medium" really adds too many artifacts. I'll just have to settle for pixentral's 30 day view limit. It would be helpful if RetouchPro changed their file size limit to 200K:

http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?pi...mFunBxXDZgw0mh
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