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Whenever I've spoken with someone at Walmart's photo center, they are clueless regarding digital, and even the online process.
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Unfortunately, I think you find that problem in a lot of consumer labs that have gone digital. Either the people that work there are knowledgeable about photo printing but haven't made the knowledge leap into the new world of digital, or the people that work there are just minimum wage workers with no real photo knowledge in the first place.
Fortunately, it's not a global truth. There are labs to be found out there where the people are both knowledgeable and helpful. But they are rare gems and seem to be getting rarer as technology advances.
For the most part, the way things are currently, the consumer needs to know enough to educate the lab employee if necessary. I know it shouldn't be that way, but that's what things seem to have come down to.
Now I'll fess up.
I am currently working at my local Wal-Mart so I end up making my own prints. The Frontier is a wonderful piece of equipment. I've been working in labs for about 20 years now (mostly pro labs & capture labs but they do often have minilab equipment in them for making machine prints), and the Frontier is by far the best thing I've seen yet for the type of work it does. But (and this is a big "but" here) the machine is only as good as its operator.
Even before I started working there, I was a big fan of the Wal-Mart photo centers in my area (there were 3 that I used prior to getting a job there). The people there were great, they bent over backwards to do my stuff for me, and the prints they made were just beautiful. Maybe I just got lucky and maybe not all Wal-Mart stores are as good, but the quality of the work and helpfulness of the employees was one of the reasons I accepted the job offer...
The thing I've found most often that's the problem when a print off of my Frontier doesn't match what I was expecting is that my monitor is out of calibration.
One way to get good prints from a lab is to find a lab you like and will stick with, have a few prints made from your digital files and then go home and calibrate your monitor until what you see on the screen is a good overall match to what you got from the lab. You'll need to repeat this calibration as often as you would any regular calibration. NOTE: this will
not work for you if you switch regularly between several different labs since you are in effect calibrating your monitor to specifically match a particular lab's equipment! (This is how we've calibrated our lab monitors internally at labs I've worked for previously).
I personally have never had to match my own monitor to the prints at the lab. I just do a normal monitor calibration and (for me) the prints match fine as long as I keep my monitor properly calibrated using the Adobe Gamma utility.
Another thing to remember is that a print (reflected light) will never match a computer screen (transmitted light) perfectly. It is the modern equivalent dilemma of trying to get a print from a slide to match the actual transparency. It can come close, and the print can have its own beautiful qualities, but they can never truly exactly match because they are apples and oranges. If you keep in mind as you're working on your computer that your end result will be paper, and not a mass of glowing pixels, you can get good results. You can know that your colors may look slightly different in print than they do on your monitor (photo paper has a hard time interpreting bright primary colors, especially red). You can also know in advance that the subtle difference between 00000 (black) and 1A1919 (almost black) that you can readily see on your computer screen is not going to be "seen" by the emulsion on photo paper and can adjust as necessary to get a good print.
There seems to be this huge quest for the perfect ICC profile among people who work with Photoshop. I see discussions about it on Usenet all the time, and I've had several conversations about it with members here. From my point of view, as someone who's never done anything except work in photo labs, it is a search for a holy grail that doesn't exist. I work strictly in sRGB. I've never used a color profile. I don't even know how to use them. And even before I started working at my present job, the prints I got there from my files were wonderful. Yes, there were a few "clinkers" along the way, but I took them back, explained what I didn't like and what I wanted instead, and the communication between myself and the lab eventually resulted in them being able to make an excellent educated guess about what kinds of corrections to make on their end to give me exactly what I was looking for on mine. The biggest issue for me was that they were happy to go out of their way to work with me to be sure they gave me what I wanted. If you can find a lab with that attitude, any other problems that exist can usually be surmounted through good communication.
Getting good prints means building a working relationship with a lab. Relationships take work, even that kind. What customers are looking for is so widely varied and subjective that you have to have quite a few "dates" before you even get to know one another well. And as you get to know one another, you get to know each other's limitations and strong points, likes and dislikes. But giving up on a lab before that relationship can form just builds frustrations on both sides - you don't stay long enough to get a good print, and the lab loses you as a customer before they have a chance to get a "feel" for what your particular likes and dislikes are.
Give the lab manager the address for
RP and ask them to check it out. This would be a good place for lab employees to visit, even if they don't do retouching or restoration themselves. It would put them in touch with a slice of their potential client base and allow them to learn some things that may make them better able to give you the kind of service you want.
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They have a FujiFrontier and print on FujiCrystal matte (with a lot of texture).
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The Fuji Crystal Archive Lustre paper is actually an N surface finish. Much less texture than an E surface paper. It does have more texture than an N surface in some other brands though. If you can find an Agfa lab nearby, you might like Agfa's lustre paper better if the Fuji has too much texture for your taste, since the Agfa has a bit less texture to it. I personally don't like the colors produced by Agfa paper as well though...