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Tutorial: Trimoon - Lily and the Flower with No Name

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Old 04-20-2003, 02:08 PM
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Trimoon Trimoon is offline
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Tutorial for the Lily and the Flower with No Name

Here's how I did the previous posting of the lily and the flower with no name.

This link takes you to a larger Image:Lily

1. First, make a copy of your first layer. You should always do this with anything you do in PhotoShop. Name this layer whatever you want. I usually name it "art 1". After you've copied your layer, create a new layer, filing it with white. Make sure this layer is below your duplicated layer, art 1.

2. With the flower, I removed all the background, using the eraser tool. Since the layer below is white, you will end up with your image on white.

3. Now go up to the menu to select >all, then go back up to the menu to select edit >copy merged. Then go back to edit >paste. What you will end up with is the image plus the background all in one layer.

4. Use the smudge tool to pull your colors together, creating a grain effect. I am supplying a preset for this tool that I used on the above flowers.

The first preset is a very light tool and is used for blending and is best used in a rubbing motion, as if you are trying to smooth hard edges.

The second preset is for creating the brush texture. This is also very good to use when doing hair and you want to create hair fibers that flow from the body of the hair onto the image. Play with this and you will get an idea of what I'm talking about. On the petals, I used it to drag from the center out creating the flow of color. Adjusting the opacity on this give some very interesting results and is best learned through experimentation since each image is different.

5. Reapplying the background is very simple. What I did above was to create a new layer called "background". This layer should be above your art 1 layer. At this point, your color palette, your foreground and background colors, should be colors you picked from your image. This ensures a harmony between the two layers when the image is done. Going into the menu, I selected filter >Render>Clouds. Go back to menu filter >Render > Difference Clouds. Do this several times by using Ctrl+F until you get a desirable pattern. The rest is somewhat of a hit and miss, depending on your image. I usually do overlay using the blending mode for that layer. When you get the right look, you take your eraser with an opacity of 40 percent and remove any of the background that overlays your image that you do not want.

6. Merge all the layers and apply the texture of your choice. On the above, I used filter > texture > texturizer with the setting of sandstone, scaling 100 percent, relief 2, light direction, bottom right. That's it.

This is the link to download the presets:
Presets



I'm also posting a black-and-white sketch using this same technique. Let me know what you think.
BW Image

NOTE: If anyone feels they can type this up in a better and more understandable format, please feel free to do so. However, I'd like you to e-mail it to me so that I can look at it and post it. I will give proper credit for your work. I am not that good at this part of it and I've collaborated with others in the past, who've done a great job.
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Old 04-20-2003, 04:56 PM
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LactoBeeZor LactoBeeZor is offline
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Thanks sooooo much for that tutoral Steve.
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Old 04-20-2003, 06:03 PM
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GOLDCOIN GOLDCOIN is offline
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Wow....thank you very much, Steve!!!!

Photoshop is warming up as I type this to you......
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Old 04-21-2003, 12:48 AM
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Trimoon Trimoon is offline
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Hibiscus

Larger Image:Hibiscus No2.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg hibiscus no 2 rp.jpg (65.1 KB, 539 views)
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Old 04-21-2003, 06:23 AM
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angue angue is offline
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Steve,
The tutorial is incredible. It's so easy to follow that I can't help myself to try it.
So without further ado, here's my contribution.

Tony

P.S. Thank you Steve, for sharing your wisdom.

Last edited by angue; 04-21-2003 at 06:30 AM.
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Old 04-21-2003, 06:32 AM
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angue angue is offline
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OOPS.
The image got lost when I edited the above post.
Here it is, hopefully.
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File Type: jpg web_rose-after-trimoon1.jpg (95.8 KB, 501 views)
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Old 04-21-2003, 06:53 AM
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Trimoon Trimoon is offline
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Wow! Tony you did a great job.
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Old 04-21-2003, 06:01 PM
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DannyRaphael DannyRaphael is offline
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Thumbs down Positively awesome!

Just added to the "best of" forum.
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Old 04-21-2003, 07:38 PM
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Trimoon Trimoon is offline
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I used the same technique I just added USM 500%, Radius 3.0 Threshold 0 and Canvas Texture.


This link takes you to a larger Image:
Hibiscus in Oil
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Old 04-21-2003, 07:40 PM
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Trimoon Trimoon is offline
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Additional notes for tutorial

First of all, I'd like to add that when you erase your background and you follow the edge of your image, you don't have to be really precise. When you use the smudge tool, that will clean up the edges and actually give you a more realistic look. Second, I would like to add that, in a lot of the images I post, you will notice a pencil outline around the image. This is not uncommon to see in original artwork. I work with about 300 artists and this seems to be a common theme seen in watercolor artists. You'll see a faint outline of the pencil that they used for the base of their work. I usually create a layer from the original image separate from what I'm working on and go up to filter > blur > smart blur. The settings that I use are as follows: radius 100, threshold 80, quality high and mode edge only.

Now go to the menu and do image > invert and what you end up with is black lines on a white background. This in itself does not look much like a lead pencil outline so you need to go to filter > stylize > diffuse and use the following settings: lighten only. This gives you a broken up line as if a lead pencil was used on art paper.

Next, go to image > adjustments > brightness/contrasts and adjust so that you end up with a white background and a line that is not black but more of a gray (like lead).

To apply this on your image, you make sure that it is above your art layer and you apply a layer mode that best suits your image (like multiply or screen). You may want to adjust the opacity just to give you a faint line. This looks even better if you can have some of the line extent past your artwork faintly (to give it a more realistic look).

Remember, what we're trying to do is deceive the eye. The more slight imperfections, the more realistic and less computerized. You don't want people to look at it and say it was done on a computer. I'm proud to say that, once I print mine out on art paper, most people haven't a clue that it was done on a computer. That's not to say that I try to deceive people and sell them something under false pretenses. They always know what they're getting. Since I basically repaint the image (and, of course, this is photo manipulating), I feel that it's gone a little further than that. I call my artwork digital art and I explain to people exactly what I do. It doesn't seem to make a difference. They like it for what it is. This makes me happy.

Steve
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