welcome to RP.
FFT is one of the most difficult plugins to use...effectively. i've spent some time with it and it's always a bit of a struggle getting things right. nonetheless, when it works, it works well.
you shld also know that there is more than one way to use it. the original post introducting us all here to FFT stated you use CLONE to wipe out the little stars. if you dont know what the little stars are, you shld read the tutorial. however, somewhere along the line, CLONE got coverted to PAINT THE STARS BLACK. and that's how the tutorial ended up being, paint em black.
now, it's sort of existed that way around here ever since, but a couple months ago it occurred to me that if painting them black would work, then cloning shld work even better. so, i ran a few tests and got some decent results.
today, when i saw your post, i was already using clone instead of black, so i started playing around and got some so-so results. so, i decided to find the original threads and re-learn how to use it. in doing so, i noticed the original reference to FFT and it said CLONE! ok, that's pretty cool. i had actually converted back to the original way not even realizing it was the original way (forgive me for patting myself on the back here ).
at any rate, i still wasnt getting the results i thought i shld be, so i went back and read the formal tutorial on the subject. sure enough, i had missed a step or two. but, the thing said paint em black. i ignored that part
however, on my system, with my program, i got no little stars in the red channel. that seemed a bit odd. and in reading the tut it had explained that the FFT was a mathematical procedure that only a computer would understand. ummm, those kinds of statements always make me a bit.... curious.
so, i decided that if the thing was mathematical, and that math has, usually, a certain elagance and even beauty when applied to graphics, and that normally that math will show as a pattern, and since i do a lot of retouching, wouldnt it make sense to just 'FIX' the mathematical pattern. in other words, retouch the FFT image to its intended elegance of being a mathematical representation.
so, i did a little 'restoration' on the FFT pattern in the red channel. the heck with the stars (since there werent any, really) and the heck with hunting and pecking for the errant paper pattern; let's just make it pretty! and sure enough, it worked!
now, i did somewhat approximate where the stars shld be. i also worked on all this after doubling the size of the image (i cut it back down after). but basically i just looked for the overall pattern, looked for where it was wrong and corrected it based only on the overall 'look' of the math.
now, i dont know if this will always work. most likely it wont. but it did seem to do a fair job on your image.
attached is just the result of the FFT, still in de-saturated mode. you would then take this and add it over your original and set the FFT fix to luminance blend mode.
from there you have two ways to go, clone out the ink or do the coloring. i'd suggest clone and such first.
and from there, you have two more ways to go; try to bring out the colors of the original, or wipe then and paint them in yourself. you didnt mention which you had done and i'd be curious to know.
so, if you followed all that, yer a better man than i, gunga din
p.s. i'm fairly sure this isnt going to look very good. the compression was pretty severe. i may put up another tomorrow.
The reason you didn't see stars is the version you worked on is so reduced in size that the spurs (that's what I call the stars) has been aliased into the data way down at the center of the FFT. In order for the FFT to work, the scan must be high enough resolution to capture the pattern (not just the image) with good sharpness. Another requirement for the FFT to work well is the pattern should be fairly well aligned to horizontal and vertical. If it's slightly rotated, it also will make the spur pattern more complicated--ie., fainter spurs and more of them.
Welcome to Retouch Pro.
The pictures posted are under 50kb. The limit here is 100kb so the pictures could be bigger.
1) FFT. Unfortunately the picture is not high enough to run FFT so I skipped this. But it should be the First step.
2) Ink. In the Magenta and Yellow channels the ink is almost gone but I decided to stay in RGB and use channel mixer. Using a mix of mainly Green to reduce the blue ink. Followed by a bit of painting and cloning to remove all traces.
3) Add back the colour and adjust Levels.
4) Layers to paint and colour.
And that’s about it. I did some selective sharpening and removed some of the pink cast from the background.
yes, i'd sort of thought that as well, which is why i doubled the image size before running FFT. they still didnt show, but i could sort of guess and it seems i came pretty close.
Thanks for all the input !! I'll answer the questions posed in this thread.
- I do not have the photo, I have a scan that was given to me. The scan is fairly large in size, but in looking back at the PSD file it's only 144 DPI. I agree I need a higher resolution, I typcially scan at LEAST at 300dpi, sometimes 600.
- the pattern - if I have a photo with a pattern, I always scan it with descreen. My scanner does a really good job of getting rid of such things (it's a Microtek), so yes.. I know about it .
- FFT. I did use FFT on the original scan, but as Bart noted, the resolution clearly isn't enough to get better results. I did see 'stars' and worked the same tutorial you linked to here. The lower res likely explains why I didn't get better results.
Touch, I'll look for that product !! I've got some old family photos of my own that I could use it on so it will certainly be used more than once. Where would I find this PEC 12 ?
Ken - when I posted the thumbnails I didn't really expect anyone to actually try to work with it Trying to work with such a small sample is tough but you folks have come up with some very amazing results. When I started this restoration, I'd never tried converting to either LAB or CMYK, but if the ink is nearly gone in the yellow and magenta channels, perhaps that's what I should do.
To get to the state it's in now I used a number of adjustment layers - levels, curves, color balance, and different blend modes. I decided to replace the background because it seemed to be the easiest and quickest way to get rid of the majority of the ink. However, I did get stuck when it came to the ink on the kid .. so I came to ask the experts here
I'm going to see if I can get the original photo and scan it myself and use the flip and re-scan mentioned here.
I'm not sure where you're located. At the labs I've worked at we always bought it at a photo supply company in town. I did find this link to it at Adorama http://www.adorama.com/CHPEC12.html?...59362032266518
The only suggestion I can give you about using it, is to spray it on a piece of soft cloth of some kind, then wipe your photo. Don't spray it directly on the photo itself.
It is a miracle cleaner. I love the stuff!! If you can take anything off a photo before doing your retouching, it's less time on the computer for you. And besides it makes you look llike a genius to any clients you have.
Thanks !! I'm in Nashville, TN btw. Not many good camera stores here, mostly stuck with Wolf/Ritz, but shopping on-line tends to be cheaper anyway
Would this stuff work on TinTypes, or is that dangerous ?
I haven't tried it on anything but traditional photo paper. You might be able to call Wolf/Ritz and ask them if they have used it and if it would work on tin types.
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