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Photo Restoration Repairing damaged photos

OPR Restoration - Navy

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  #11  
Old 08-15-2006, 11:54 PM
roger_ele's Avatar
roger_ele roger_ele is offline
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Hi Candy,

ok, so now I don't feel so tagged ...

1st screen shot:

I played with this some more, and I found the green channel to be the one with detail that showed the most original face shape. I used apply image to paste the green channel into a new layer and then levels to adjust the tone.

2nd screen shot:

I had a hell of a time seeing where the changes wer, so I pasted in the blue channel (cause it was the most dramatic for seeing the face shape and created reference points with the guides

3 is the image with the neck a little bigger on the left and jaw shape adjusted.

Roger
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File Type: jpg WithGuideLines.jpg (75.5 KB, 41 views)
File Type: jpg LAGASSEkaren04-web4-rr.jpg (90.4 KB, 55 views)
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  #12  
Old 08-16-2006, 08:33 AM
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klassylady25 klassylady25 is offline
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Hm,she says as she scratches her head!

Tis food for thought
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  #13  
Old 08-16-2006, 10:46 AM
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Craig Walters Craig Walters is offline
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candy,

i see you're in the thick of it again. fun, isnt it

if you dont mind, i'm going to post a series of pictures of steps of working on this image. i do hope this is ok. it's probably the easiest way i can help.

first, i work in rgb as much as possible. i usually dont work on single channels and i really dont think you have to here from what i see so far. i'll also mention that if you're using photoshop, any version, their clone is a bit clumsy, at least to me. i'm using psp 9 (my main computer is in the shop with psp 10 and this is windows 98se so i cant install 10 on this machine). psp's clone is simple, right click to set the start point and left click to clone. so, it's all on the mouse for ease of use. and yes, there are other settings along the top tool bar for opacity and all that.

with this image i decided it would be best just to get rid of some of the clutter. there is nothing in the background worth saving so i just cloned it all over with a bit of decent background i found near his jaw on the camera left of his face.

my workflow is simple: duplicate the original layer and then also make a new blank layer and set the clone to 'use all layers'. i set the clone tool to 90% opacity to do the background. this is fast, just roughing things out, type of work. the 'hardness' of the tool is set to 50. this setting allows a sort of feathered cloning and is very forgiving, which is why i like it.

so, with the blank layer highlighted i just start where i indicated above and move around the man's head till i've got a mostly clean area. i'm not even really trying to get up close and really clean edges at this point. i just want to get rid of some of the distracting area of the background so that things are a little cleaner.

and that's it, stage one complete.

craig
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  #14  
Old 08-16-2006, 11:28 AM
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Craig Walters Craig Walters is offline
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ok, this is stage two. again, all i'm trying to do here is clean up the rough stuff so that i can better see the good stuff. this time i took the coat and hat. the brush is still at 90% opacity and 50% hardness. i may have missed on his collar on the camera right side but i can fill that back in later from a similar image if i did.

notice i purposely left a little texture and whiteness in the coat. i dont want a perfectly monotone color here. i'll do more with that later.

i did nothing on the face but i did go around a few edges and get them closer.

oh, and this was all done on yet another blank layer, not the same layer i used in stage one. there is an advantage in doing this this way. if you find out you really messed something up in one of the stage it's a whole lot easier to deal with that one layer than to try and go back 500 or even 1000 steps in the history. i've even deleted whole layers and just done them over and that's again, a whole lot easier than just starting from scratch.

so, stage two, done.

craig
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  #15  
Old 08-16-2006, 03:41 PM
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Craig Walters Craig Walters is offline
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stage three. now, these stages are all pretty arbitrary. it's just i get to a certain point or maybe a certain area and look at things and go, 'ok, that's good so far'. they are just sort of break points in the workflow.

on this one, i'm still all clone, but i've changed the opacity down to 60% now. i'm still at 50% hardness, though. it starts to get a bit trickier now. i've also lowered the brush size for closer work.

here i'm going to start cleaning up the face a bit, but again, this is mostly to just sort of generally clean things up; no fine detail work yet, at least not on the face. and since my motto on these is always 'do no damage', i'm staying away from the eyes for now. i do handle the chin and jaw line on the camera right side a bit. i also do a little more on the uniform and hat and some of the outer edges of the head.

basically, i'm just doing those areas that wont hurt things too much at this brush size and this opacity and i'm still staying away, mostly, from the critical edges like eyes and lips, though i do do some on the ears now. it also gets more important to start watching the shading, so the stuff directly under the brim of the hat has to be watched and around the jaw where the jaw shades the neck and so on. i work from many directions to the same point often, picking up the shade from one area and then the other, blending them into each other to make a smoother transition. i also take out the major mar across the face/nose area while defining the nose a bit more in the process.

this is also where it starts to become important in knowing how the human anatomy looks close up. at various points i might also put a contrast/brighness adjustment layer up for a bit to bring out more detail so i can see where the edge lines are. but i dont leave this up when i clone. this is just for checking my lines.

ok, i didnt do a lot on this stage and that tends to be the case. as you get into more and more detail, i like to make new blank layers to work with for each area, minimizing the amount of flaws on one layer.

and that's it for this stage.

craig
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  #16  
Old 08-16-2006, 10:12 PM
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klassylady25 klassylady25 is offline
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Awwwww Kraelin

And I just made the popcorn!

Now you know how much I'm going to have to read and reread, don't you?
ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh but you can bet your boots that this masocitic gal, I recall you calling someone, will get the job done and boy do I appreciate all the help. That is what learning is about.

Hugs!!!

Last edited by klassylady25; 08-17-2006 at 08:43 AM.
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  #17  
Old 08-16-2006, 11:32 PM
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Craig Walters Craig Walters is offline
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candy,

next stage. this is actually two small stages, another clone at 40% opacity but i moved the hardness down to 35% because i also made the brush smaller, and another stage (and new layer) for some airbrushing.

with clone i worked on the ears, the neck and edges with clone. also some on the cap getting lines better. also moved some shading with clone and smoothed out some earlier clone marks and transitions.

with the airbrush i added in some shading on the face and a bit of texture on the neck and took out some of the red on the cap. i also smoothed out some noise with the airbrush.

one thing to watch out for is to keep clone layers separate from airbrush layers and if you use smudge, keep that on a separate layer also.

also, though i havent done it on this airbrush layer, you can sometimes do a gausian blur on that layer to get a better look. just sort of depends.

also, i've decided to leave the research on the uniform up to you. so, i'm pretty much done with that part. you need to find where the collars are and the tie, though the tie seems pretty defined. and you also want to know if there are any more insignia anywhere on the collar. i think there is one visible.

and i probably shld have said this earlier....save often

craig
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  #18  
Old 08-17-2006, 12:20 AM
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roger_ele roger_ele is offline
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Excellent steps and tutorial Craig, Congratulations
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  #19  
Old 08-17-2006, 06:37 AM
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Flora Flora is offline
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Hi everybody,

this restoration is really becoming excellent!!

Roger, Craig,

excellent job!! It would be very nice to see your clear and very detailed explanations in published Tutorials!!

Unfortunately, such great step-by-step descriptions tend to get 'lost/buried' as the number of Threads and Posts increases ..
How often I'm looking for tips I know I've seen here at RP, but can't find them anymore ...

Candice,

I really admire you ... Not scared of tackling very difficult restoration problems just for the sake of helping and learning!! ... Simply great!!!

As for the 'subjective' part, [keeping in mind that restoring (opposed to retouching) should help bringing something (photo, painting, etc.) back to its initial 'glory' remaining as close as possible to the original..], it refers to the ways you follow to get to the required/desired result...

Here is a list of tips on the topic I collected:
  • If dealing with portraits or picture of people, never change the 'identity' of the subject/s ... meaning don't change eyes, mouths, noses and don't reposition these features in the face ... It might look nicer to you, but satisfy your taste isn't what matters ... you are dealing with people's memories and people want to remember/recognize the subject/s of the pictures as they were!!! (Reconstruction of missing details is another topic)

  • Keep in mind that old pictures rarely had a very strong contrast, so, go easy when adjusting contrast and exposure, a well balanced picture still has visible details in both darkest and lightest areas ...

  • The same goes for colours ... bright coloured pictures are the product of a much closer past ... so, don't go splashing strong colours on your image just for the sake of impact and, maybe, even for drawing attention from 'uncorrected' or badly corrected areas .... Be very careful to soften the edges and really blend the colours when colorizing ... badly coloured pictures tend to look like a kid's experiment on a Colouring Book!
    Here are some very useful colouring Tips.

  • Unless specifically asked, be it by customers or friends/family, don't change a photograph into a painting or a very personal artistic interpretation .... It surely makes everything easier as 'artistic' procedures tend to 'hide' scratches/imperfections much quicker ... but, sometimes, these procedures tend to transform a face into a nearly unrecognizable 'blob'

  • Go very easy with 'denoising' procedures ... (no matter what software and method you use) ... an 'overdenoised' subject migh look like a plastic doll making everything look very unnatural!

  • Go very easy with sharpening too, as strong sharpening can create unwanted, unnatural 'haloes' around a subject.

  • Finally, when making corrections, any kind of correction, start very softly ... you can 'build up' gradually until you are satisfied with the result.

Hope these tips can help you like they helped me!!!
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  #20  
Old 08-17-2006, 08:57 AM
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klassylady25 klassylady25 is offline
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Good Morning To All

As I sit and read and reread, I've made another bowl of popcorn (not really). It's all excellent and one thing that caught my eye was the sharpening and the halo... I didn't know that but see pics with it around them all the time.

Kraelin, no need to remind me to save often, one of the documents that I worked on was just about done when a storm passed through ...... GUESS who had to do things that had been done, all over again!

Insignia - I will have to look closer, for I did not see one. The cover emblem is well out dated and have not found one in any of the archives so I have to work with that one. Navy made some changes along the way. Attached is an emblem that began to show up in later WWII to present day, so keeping the definition of the other is very important.

I really do wish I could sit with one of my teachers and watch. I'm a very visual/hands on learner. My reading is excellent but then I have to translate it to the actual work. LOL We all have ways of learning: visual, auditory, and kinestetic. ...... I had to learn which way each of my kids learned when homeschooling, but enough of that...... You are also using ps 10 and I'm still using Photoshop 7, minor translation of terms thus is needed and perhaps PS 7 is not as advanced, but none the less it is the tool I must use.

You all are great! I'm excited because I believe that it can be done and won't quite until it is. That spark is what makes this keep me from pulling out ALL of my hair! lol I'll keep you posted. I'm to a place where I will share where I am and have used many of the things shared.

I was able to bring out the emblem more, bring his face into place by copying the area, creating a layer, pasting and rotating it over the area of damage. I guess you could say that I slipped it back into place. Next I brought the shirt to where I thought it would belong and cleaned up the lapels. No, I've not worried about blending yet, because I'm just reconstructing the things you see. Also, Instead of B/W I made a pattern of a clean spot of background so that I could work with a better representation of the original. It helped me... I'm not to savvy with how to blend the layers without changing what I've worked on.... Anyhow, now you can see where I've gotten to this morning. Now off to work I go!! Hi Ho Hi Ho!


Last edited by klassylady25; 08-17-2006 at 11:24 AM.
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