Colouring the pictures: ¿How to?

[Florin]

Hello dear friends.
Now, when we`re beginning a new year it`s time for a new post, wright?
As I said this before, we could share some experiences about and why not talk of this, colouring? It`s almost a day by day task.
I`m a selfmade restorer. Where I live and the times when I was beginning had nobody to teach me about. So, reading books, magazines, tutorials (later years, because internet`s forums were not available 10 years ago) etc etc.
Learning ang practicing, acquireing from my own mistakes was my way to understand what I was doing. Took time; maybe a good teacher and knowing people in the brand would help me to achieve earlier skills. But, it`s never too late to pick up something new and improve your technique.
About colouring I knew a lot of ways to do. First, I begun with the selections: make a selection with lasso, for instance, and colour it using changes of the hue and saturations or have a new lyer after and colour(paint) it. Every part of the face, of the body, different pieces of the cloth you should do the bothering selection and so on. I didn`t liked that, was too slow and the borders always were too sharp, not very precise and we talk about waist a lot, lot of time. Also, modifying a selection if later something wasn`t so perfect was more loosing time. So, dismissed.
I thought: the ideal way must be to do it in a short time, using a few and easy adjustable tool, in a fluid mode and have the possibility to edit or change the colour, or retouch the borders quickly without loosing time.
¿What could be the best but using the lyer masks and the fusion mode of the lyers?
So, I started with this technique and I really never changed it in the last 7-8 years. I don`t mean that`s the best, the only one one should use, no, I mean that`s the best for me, for the way I`m working. Maybe other people like the other way and that`s great, everyone must do what he seems that`s ok with him.
So, my routine is this:
1. Scan the image at 800 - 1000dpi at it`s native scale, 100%. If it`s an old one, I mean the colours are bad, scan in the grey scale (1/3 of the RGB Mbytes).
2.Crop to the size, 6"x8", 8"x10" etc.
3.Restore
4.Colour: Every image`s colour is a different lyer. So, above the background I make a new lyer and paint it with the colour of the skin areas (face, hands etc the same). Brush has the 60-65% of opacity. Then I cange the lyer fusion mode from Normal to Colour.. If necessary, put a little down the transparence. Now, the magic touch: make a lyer mask and eliminate (paint brush B, black colour) everything which is out of the rank. If I screw something, turn to the white colour and replace the pixels. Using the soft or the hard brushe`s borders you should have the resoult as you like. Then, a new lyer and do the same, adding a little soft "rose" colour on the cheeks. If you like, can add it on the hands (or body if it`s a streapteese retouch, hahaha) as you like. Cloths must have the same treatment, every part of the cloth has it`s own lyer and colour, generally "soft light" lyer mode, hair too.
I upload today 3 samples in the .psd native file, with all the lyer`s mask, they are originally and just look the lyers and the fusion mode of each. Also you could have the colour samples I used for each:
updated 05.02.2010:
http://rapidshare.com/files/382675940/LMejias_color.psd

http://rapidshare.com/files/382685941/4_color.psd

http://rapidshare.com/files/382688008/3-color.psd

colors i´m using:
http://rapidshare.com/files/38269209...as_05.2007.aco

The links were uploaded with a premium account so I hope they`ll be available for a long time. My software is in spanish but I`m sure it`s not a problem for you.
My best regards,
Florin

[Cupcake]

The links are always busy!
I will check again later.

[Florin]

Yeah. I see a lot of enthusiastic and excited people around this post. ¿Is this "share" and "interchange experience"?
Next time I`ll think twice before write a post.
My best regards

[aartist]

I don't think the problem with the links is "busy" as much as you have to wait a minute if you don't have a premium account.

Florin, thanks for the rundown on your coloring efforts. I like your enthusiasm. You remind me of myself when I started out. Mostly trial and error with eventual success. That process today is still mostly trial and error and learning with each new project. Trial and error just might be the best educator on planet earth.

I agree with what you said "But, it`s never too late to pick up something new and improve your technique." Fortitude and Perseverance and not giving up makes many things possible!

I like your work and am glad you have posted and shared your personal experiences with color rendered restores. Thank You!

[Florin]

Tkank you too.
These days I´ve been extremely busy in work and personal, we´ll be in touch anyway.
Regards

[Cupcake]

How do you open the file?

[Florin]

Download the .rar files to a folder. U must have the Win Rar or Win Zip previously installed in your PC (if not, look for with Google, you´ll find them quickly). Right click one by one with the mouse an choose "extract here". That´s all.
Regards

[Cupcake]

Thank You Florin.
I looked how you color the pictures.
It is very close how I do it.
I also use multiply on some of my layers.
I use Painter 11 sometimes.
They have Gel and Colorize. Try a trial 30 day down load.
I use it for eyes and etc.
Do you print yourself or do your customers want the file.
I keep my file.

[Florin]

Hello, my friend.
I don´t print my online jobs, just send the file.
Locally, my photo studio clients have their own digital printers and plotters. I deliver the job, they pay me at once and that´s all. Always keep a backup copy, many times they ruin some hard drive and loose the jobs.
Digital printers are very expensive here in the 3rd world, no man, I never should buy one.
Regards

[0lBaldy]

Originally Posted by Florin

I upload today 3 samples in the .psd native file, with all the lyer`s mask, they are originally and just look the lyers and the fusion mode of each. Also you could have the colour samples I used for each:
http://rapidshare.com/files/330295221/Sample-1.rar
http://rapidshare.com/files/330299211/Sample-3.rar
http://rapidshare.com/files/330306969/Sample-4.rar
The links were uploaded with a premium account so I hope they`ll be available for a long time.
My best regards,
Florin

OOPS!!

Error
The uploader has removed this file from the server

[Florin]

Hello. I´m surprised, I do have a premium account. Please wait a couple of days, the weekend I´l upload them again. I´m so sorry

[sergio2263]

Originally Posted by Florin

Hello dear friends.
Now, when we`re beginning a new year it`s time for a new post, wright?
As I said this before, we could share some experiences about and why not talk of this, colouring? It`s almost a day by day task.
I`m a selfmade restorer. Where I live and the times when I was beginning had nobody to teach me about. So, reading books, magazines, tutorials (later years, because internet`s forums were not available 10 years ago) etc etc.
Learning ang practicing, acquireing from my own mistakes was my way to understand what I was doing. Took time; maybe a good teacher and knowing people in the brand would help me to achieve earlier skills. But, it`s never too late to pick up something new and improve your technique.
About colouring I knew a lot of ways to do. First, I begun with the selections: make a selection with lasso, for instance, and colour it using changes of the hue and saturations or have a new lyer after and colour(paint) it. Every part of the face, of the body, different pieces of the cloth you should do the bothering selection and so on. I didn`t liked that, was too slow and the borders always were too sharp, not very precise and we talk about waist a lot, lot of time. Also, modifying a selection if later something wasn`t so perfect was more loosing time. So, dismissed.
I thought: the ideal way must be to do it in a short time, using a few and easy adjustable tool, in a fluid mode and have the possibility to edit or change the colour, or retouch the borders quickly without loosing time.
¿What could be the best but using the lyer masks and the fusion mode of the lyers?
So, I started with this technique and I really never changed it in the last 7-8 years. I don`t mean that`s the best, the only one one should use, no, I mean that`s the best for me, for the way I`m working. Maybe other people like the other way and that`s great, everyone must do what he seems that`s ok with him.
So, my routine is this:
1. Scan the image at 800 - 1000dpi at it`s native scale, 100%. If it`s an old one, I mean the colours are bad, scan in the grey scale (1/3 of the RGB Mbytes).
2.Crop to the size, 6"x8", 8"x10" etc.
3.Restore
4.Colour: Every image`s colour is a different lyer. So, above the background I make a new lyer and paint it with the colour of the skin areas (face, hands etc the same). Brush has the 60-65% of opacity. Then I cange the lyer fusion mode from Normal to Colour.. If necessary, put a little down the transparence. Now, the magic touch: make a lyer mask and eliminate (paint brush B, black colour) everything which is out of the rank. If I screw something, turn to the white colour and replace the pixels. Using the soft or the hard brushe`s borders you should have the resoult as you like. Then, a new lyer and do the same, adding a little soft "rose" colour on the cheeks. If you like, can add it on the hands (or body if it`s a streapteese retouch, hahaha) as you like. Cloths must have the same treatment, every part of the cloth has it`s own lyer and colour, generally "soft light" lyer mode, hair too.
I upload today 3 samples in the .psd native file, with all the lyer`s mask, they are originally and just look the lyers and the fusion mode of each. Also you could have the colour samples I used for each:
http://rapidshare.com/files/330295221/Sample-1.rar
http://rapidshare.com/files/330299211/Sample-3.rar
http://rapidshare.com/files/330306969/Sample-4.rar
The links were uploaded with a premium account so I hope they`ll be available for a long time. My software is in spanish but I`m sure it`s not a problem for you.
My best regards,
Florin

I am crazy about colourizing black and white photos, I would have liked to see one of your colourized photos unfortunately I cannot open the file it says error. If you don't mind I show you an example of my work. I only use 3 layers blue, Red and yellow.

http://www.pbase.com/mstmart/image/109493959

I look forward to see one of your work.


helen

[skydog]

Florin...you are saying the layers you color you convert to "softlight"?

[aartist]

Helen, love your colorization.
I'm with you, color adds so much!!
For those that don't like it, they can
easily reduce it back to black & White.

[Florin]

Hello. Sorry about the files, the premium Rapidshare is of a friend of mine, but now i have a permanent mine. In a little while I´ll upload some files again, right now.
Hellen, very good your work. As I said before, this is not so complicated. Using the blendind (or fusion) modes is a piece of cake. You must avoid the very clear or very dark tones because the blending dos not works so well on them.
I´m uploading the files...

[Florin]

Here they are (new ones):
http://rapidshare.com/files/382675940/LMejias_color.psd

http://rapidshare.com/files/382685941/4_color.psd

http://rapidshare.com/files/382688008/3-color.psd

http://rapidshare.com/files/382690550/img213_color.psd

I also uploaded the color samples (Muestras_05.2007.aco) I´m using. The final ones have some soft skin colors.
http://rapidshare.com/files/38269209...as_05.2007.aco

Just check the layers palette, everything is there.

Skydog, I´m sorry to answer so late. It´s for the work. In the RGB mode, you´ll create a layer for every color. Just fill it with the one you choose, change the blending mode to color, soft light, multiply etc, make a layer mask and erase the excess with the paintbrush (B), in black. White will revive some detail if you´ve erase too much. Changing the transparency of each layer is your taste.
Finally you save the .psd, make a copy of the file, join the layers and the background into a .jpg file. Adjust the saturation if it needs so.

One of my favorites are the vintage pics. In my site samples gallery http://restorations.yolasite.com/samples-gallery.php there is a really nice one, with two ladies. The colors are very easy, I just used golden, blue and olive green in color and soft light layers blending mode. Too bad I´ve erased the .psd file but I´m sure you´ll like this combination.

Cheers

[Florin]

Sorry, the pic http://www.pbase.com/mstmart/image/109493959 is from sergio2263 or Helen? I´m so lunatic sometimes....

[sergio2263]

Originally Posted by Florin

Here they are (new ones):
http://rapidshare.com/files/382675940/LMejias_color.psd

http://rapidshare.com/files/382685941/4_color.psd

http://rapidshare.com/files/382688008/3-color.psd

http://rapidshare.com/files/382690550/img213_color.psd

I also uploaded the color samples (Muestras_05.2007.aco) I´m using. The final ones have some soft skin colors.
http://rapidshare.com/files/38269209...as_05.2007.aco

Just check the layers palette, everything is there.

Skydog, I´m sorry to answer so late. It´s for the work. In the RGB mode, you´ll create a layer for every color. Just fill it with the one you choose, change the blending mode to color, soft light, multiply etc, make a layer mask and erase the excess with the paintbrush (B), in black. White will revive some detail if you´ve erase too much. Changing the transparency of each layer is your taste.
Finally you save the .psd, make a copy of the file, join the layers and the background into a .jpg file. Adjust the saturation if it needs so.

One of my favorites are the vintage pics. In my site samples gallery http://restorations.yolasite.com/samples-gallery.php there is a really nice one, with two ladies. The colors are very easy, I just used golden, blue and olive green in color and soft light layers blending mode. Too bad I´ve erased the .psd file but I´m sure you´ll like this combination.

Cheers

I've just visit your site your restorations is absolutely wonderful. I love the way you colourize your photos. I've managed to download one of the file to have a look it's very good and quite different. Would you mind if I ask how you do your restorations? please you don't have to answer if you don't want to but I am very curious with your restoration results.


Many thanks


helen

[Florin]

Hi, Helen. I´m some crazy guy which spent 4 or 5 more time to restore a high level pic. I´m talking abut some very damaged ones like this: http://i40.tinypic.com/xeqt89.jpg
Easy pics never come to me. So, I have ipmroved the clone-brushpaint technique all these years just because leave behind a lot of details in a "fixed" pic is not for my taste. Maybe I´m too exagerate, that´s true, but I get accustomed to paint. This started when I knew what the clonebrush can do. It´s much more better than the paintbrush (B) because you can have blended pixels, transitions etc and not so flat colors as "B" brush. It´s just a skill technique, nothing more. I also study or look a lot abuot the human physiognomy. This helps me to rebuilt (like the pic above) the fadded and missing parts of the image. I always start with the eyes, rebuilt and expression. If you´ll do good eyes you´ll have inloved the client. Then, go down little by little, painting the nose, mouth and cheeks. It´s so slow but sometimes the damages are so extended and no tool could remake the image. Work hard with the clonebrush and you´ll see in some middle-time the best resoults.
Cheers

[Panpan]

Hi Florin,
My technique is very different. I use gradient maps. I also prefer to use less damaged originals whenever I can.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pierre_...7602326123652/

[Florin]

Very nice pics, good jobs. But, as u say, working with old stuff is so different.
People never send me new pics, just mess to be fixed.... I like very much your colors

[skydog]

panpan...also very nice...

even with your technique nailed down how long does it take you?

[Panpan]

Thank you Florin and skydog.

even with your technique nailed down how long does it take you?

Let's see...

About half an hour to put every item on its own layer. The original b&w at the bottom is the only luminance layer. The other layers are in color mode, with a hue or a color balance adjustment layer clipped to some of them.
I put skin on top, then hair, lips, eyes, teeth, clothes, etc. The selections get progressively easier because I only have to do a very rough selection on the edges already masked above. For example, I only select a rough oval for the outside of the lips; I only have to worry about masking out teeth.

Next I research and decide the colors I'm going to use. What were that celebrity's hair and eye colors? What are the colors of an Underwood typewriter? Research can be hard. For example, what is the color of that flower that I cannot name? What is that thing behind Lana Turner? Put an hour there.

The colorizing itself is easy. I already have gradient maps for different skins, hairs and objects to use as a starting point. Put half an hour here for applying those and to create some new gradient maps from the example images I googled in the previous step.

[chillin]

Very nice work Florin & Panpan.
Here another technique you could add to your toolbox.

[sergio2263]

Originally Posted by Florin

Hi, Helen. I´m some crazy guy which spent 4 or 5 more time to restore a high level pic. I´m talking abut some very damaged ones like this: http://i40.tinypic.com/xeqt89.jpg
Easy pics never come to me. So, I have ipmroved the clone-brushpaint technique all these years just because leave behind a lot of details in a "fixed" pic is not for my taste. Maybe I´m too exagerate, that´s true, but I get accustomed to paint. This started when I knew what the clonebrush can do. It´s much more better than the paintbrush (B) because you can have blended pixels, transitions etc and not so flat colors as "B" brush. It´s just a skill technique, nothing more. I also study or look a lot abuot the human physiognomy. This helps me to rebuilt (like the pic above) the fadded and missing parts of the image. I always start with the eyes, rebuilt and expression. If you´ll do good eyes you´ll have inloved the client. Then, go down little by little, painting the nose, mouth and cheeks. It´s so slow but sometimes the damages are so extended and no tool could remake the image. Work hard with the clonebrush and you´ll see in some middle-time the best resoults.
Cheers

Thanks Florin for your reply, this is the first time i've heard of clone-brush technique I suppose you learn something everyday. Your work is wonderful looks similar to smudge painting it looks like hard work what you've done and I am sure you've put years of practice to get as good as you have.

Keep up the wonderful work I am sure you have lots of very satisfied customers.


regards


helen

[skydog]

PanPan...

tell me a little more about your gradient maps...different for each application? what do you find to be the difference between using and not using?

[Panpan]

skydog,

I have a basic set of gradients for skin and hair that I use as a starting point and modify with hue/saturation or adjustment layers.
I attached them to this entry. I made them from skin patch sets available here I think. Most of the gradients are self-explanatory when you hover the mouse over them. Some are more obscure like Vlady. I made it from sampling French actress Marina Vlady's lips (only the photo, alas).
I repurpose gradients all the time. For instance when I'm not using 'Vlady', I may use a more saturated, red-shifted version of a skin gradient.

what do you find to be the difference between using and not using?

Skin is not monochromatic with two spots of blush on the cheeks.
First of all, skin - and hair more so - is shiny and shine desaturates. So my gradients have lower saturation for lighter shades, all the way to white.

Second, skin is semi-transparent. With more light you see more of the yellow fat underneath. There are also many areas that are redder: cheekbones, nose, chin point, front skull plate and ears (some people have full-ear blush; others have upper ear blush). And that's only the face.
I handle the yellow shift in the gradient and the red shift with a color balance adjustment layer clipped to the skin layer. That adjustment is masked with a highly feathered selection of the areas mentioned above.

Third, the darker the skin, the more variations it has.

Fourth and last, variations are esthetically pleasing.

I've talked of skin and hair, but this applies to varying degree to other items in a photograph. That's why I use gradients to colorize them too.

[Panpan]

Chillin,

Thank you for the link. I'm reading it.