CLICK HERE
Edge Sharpening
Portrait and nature photographers have one thing in common: we hate seeing sharpening artifacts on large blocks of color. Any underlying noise in the image tends to bubble up to visible, and skies or skin tones with too much detail in them don't look as good as gently gradated ones. And if you know what bokeh is (the character of out-of-focus areas) and care about it, you'll be particularly bothered by what happens to noise in out-of-focus areas. Indeed, the first thing I look at in an image to see if sharpening is detectable is the non-detailed, out-of-focus areas. I've seen all kinds of techniques that attempt to deal with the problem of pulling up sharpening artifacts (deselecting the continuous tone areas before sharpening, using history brushes to paint out sharpening in certain areas, etc.). But the following technique is my favorite. Essentially, you build a mask of just the edges in your image, then apply sharpening to the areas under the mask. Here's one set of steps you can use in Photoshop:
1. Open your image, as usual. Perform all your other corrections on it before sharpening, as usual.
2. When you're ready to sharpen, click on the Channels palette and create a new channel. This new channel will eventually be your mask. Change it's name to "Sharpening Mask."
3. Click on the RGB channel for your image.
4. Select the entire image (Select->Select All).
5. Copy the entire image (Edit->Copy).
6. Click on the Sharpening Mask channel you created in Step #2. Paste the image in (Edit->Paste). It'll appear in black and white, but that's what we want, so don't worry.
7. Use the Find Edges filter (Filter->Stylize->Find Edges) on the Sharpening Mask channel. It'll turn into something that looks a bit like a line drawing. Our next steps will be to tweak this mask.
8. We want the black to be really black and the white to be really white in our mask, so use Levels to make the adjustment (Image->Adjust->Levels). Move the black point in from the left, and the white point in from the right (the triangles under the histogram). How much you do this is one of the critical choices you'll be making, so take your time, and remember that the black areas are what are going to be sharpened (the white areas won't be sharpened).
9. We want to hide the actual sharpening of the edges, so we need to make sure there's a smooth transition from white to black in our mask. To accomplish this, use a small Gaussian blur on the image (say 2-4 pixels) (Filter->Blur->Gaussian Blur).
10. Now we need to tell Photoshop that our Sharpening Mask is just that, a mask. To do that, we need to select the black bits only. Use Select->Load Selection. In the dialog that comes up, make sure that Sharpening Mask appears as the Channel and that the Invert box is checked.
11. Click on the Layers tab and make the image visible again. You should see the selection created in Step #10 superimposed over the image.
12. Get the image ready for sharpening. Choose View->Show->Hide Edges (Cmd/Ctrl-H) to make the selection invisible, then choose View->Actual Pixels and scroll the image to an area with which you want to evaluate the sharpening.
13. Finally, we're ready to sharpen. Select Filter->Sharpen->Unsharp Mask and play with the values. Note that you can use much higher amounts than usual, as the halos tend to fall outside the selected areas. Radius should be a low value (.5 to 1.0), and Threshold should be 0. If you find that the sharpened area is too restrictive, go back to Step 8 and change your mask.
Yes, that's a lot of steps, but you can easily make them into a Photoshop Action (make sure to click on the icon to make Steps 8 and 13 editable during playback). This, by the way, isn't the only way to perform an edge sharpening technique. I've seen at least a half dozen variants on the idea of making a mask for the details, then sharpen only at the mask.