Whats the deal with the 50% gray background?

[abdul10000]

I read so much about 50% gray background in this forum, but for whatever reason cannot understand its exact purpose.


It seems people use it with blend modes like soft light, overlay, etc for some special effects. For example, I can't understand how its applied to D&B instead of the traditional black and white mask. Can someone help me understand how 50% gray background is used with D&B?


Also, how do you apply such background? Do you select Gray as color when starting a new adjustment layer for example?


Thanks in advance!

[morpheus1870]

First to create your grey layer above your original image:

Ctrl shift + N
Select the mode to soft light or overlay
Check the box "fill with overlay neutral colour (50% grey)"

Now select a brush and paint with either black to burn your image (working on the new grey layer) or use white to dodge your image (still working on the new grey layer)

By changing your brush size, hardness (usally 0% hardness) flow and opacity you have more control when lightening or darkening your image. This technique can be used in conjunction with the more traditional dodge and burn tools.

Hope that kinda helps.

Example below of using this technique on a mono image.

[abdul10000]

Originally Posted by morpheus1870

First to create your grey layer above your original image:

Ctrl shift + N
Select the mode to soft light or overlay
Check the box "fill with overlay neutral colour (50% grey)"

Now select a brush and paint with either black to burn your image (working on the new grey layer) or use white to dodge your image (still working on the new grey layer)

By changing your brush size, hardness (usally 0% hardness) flow and opacity you have more control when lightening or darkening your image. This technique can be used in conjunction with the more traditional dodge and burn tools.

Hope that kinda helps.

Example below of using this technique on a mono image.

Wow that was fast, thanks!

I see how to make it now. Is this technique used in D&B instead of making two curves (lighten, darken), and for what advantage?

[Swampy]

50% gray is a magic thing. Depending on what is above it or below it and what blend modes are involved it does some marvelous things. It all has to do with luminosity. Take any photo, duplicate it, desaturate that copy and set the blend mode to Overlay, Softlight, Color Burn Color Dodge and watch what happens to the underlying layer. Adjust the opacity - more fun things happen. Reverse the order and put the gray layer below. Walk through the blend modes on the color layer and see what happens. Just play!

[Daviskw]

Hi there


No expert here but I think I know a few different reasons for using 50 percent gray.

Some filters, such as lens flare, will not work on an empty layer. You can isolate these filters on a blank layer by filling with 50 percent gray then changing the layer mode to one that uses 50 percent gray as a neutral color…such as overlay or soft light. Neutral color of a blend mode will be transparent on that layer.

Sometimes the gray is not truly required but allows you to see the result of a filter before you change the mode. I often fill a layer with gray before adding noise and blur then when satisfied I change the mode to reveal the picture below.

If using a layer for dodging and burning the gray is not necessary, if the mode is set correctly, but the gray will allow you to see on the layer pallet where you have applied your brush. You can also apply 50 percent gray to remove the effect.

Some procedures may want you to actually see different parts of your picture. Say you want to see the colors in your picture but not the luminosity. You can do this by duplicating a layer…changing its layer mode to color. Then below this layer insert a blank layer filled with 50 percent gray. You will then see and manipulate just the colors because the math is combining the color with a neutral gray. This will also allow you to see just luminosity if needed.

I am sure there are many more uses… I am drawing a blank just now… others may correct me or contribute more.

Butch

[abdul10000]

Originally Posted by Swampy

50% gray is a magic thing. Depending on what is above it or below it and what blend modes are involved it does some marvelous things. It all has to do with luminosity. Take any photo, duplicate it, desaturate that copy and set the blend mode to Overlay, Softlight, Color Burn Color Dodge and watch what happens to the underlying layer. Adjust the opacity - more fun things happen. Reverse the order and put the gray layer below. Walk through the blend modes on the color layer and see what happens. Just play!

haha I am actually having fun!

Now I see how some of the common high contrast desaturated portraits are made. Blending using Overlay or Hardlight, and then tweaking the blend if and opacity produces such interesting effects.

thanks

[abdul10000]

Originally Posted by Daviskw

Hi there


If using a layer for dodging and burning the gray is not necessary, if the mode is set correctly, but the gray will allow you to see on the layer pallet where you have applied your brush. You can also apply 50 percent gray to remove the effect.


Butch

Overall interesting information.

Do you mean that the only advantage to gray in this case is to help you better see your brush strokes?

Thanks

[Dave.Cox]

Much of it has to do with the way that several of the filters in photoshop are used. 50% gray is the middle of the spectrum For instance when using overlay mode, pixels are lightened if they are whiter than 50% gray, and darkened if they are darker than 50% gray. You can add a layer that if filled with 50% gray, and set the mode to overlay, and the layer is in effect ignored, because the 50% gray pixels do not lighten or darken, as this is the mid point. It in fact, appears to disappear.

Try this as and experiment, and you will see what I mean. Pick any photo, and add a blank layer. In the new layer, add three boxes. One white, one 50% gray, and one black. Now set the layer mode to overlay, and see what you see.

Or you can view these examples where I have done this for you.

[abdul10000]

Originally Posted by Dave.Cox

Much of it has to do with the way that several of the filters in photoshop are used. 50% gray is the middle of the spectrum For instance when using overlay mode, pixels are lightened if they are whiter than 50% gray, and darkened if they are darker than 50% gray. You can add a layer that if filled with 50% gray, and set the mode to overlay, and the layer is in effect ignored, because the 50% gray pixels do not lighten or darken, as this is the mid point. It in fact, appears to disappear.

Try this as and experiment, and you will see what I mean. Pick any photo, and add a blank layer. In the new layer, add three boxes. One white, one 50% gray, and one black. Now set the layer mode to overlay, and see what you see.

Or you can view these examples where I have done this for you.

This puts things in perspective now. Thanks

[abdul10000]

One last question. How does soft mode D&B differ from the dodge and burn method presented by videosean's tutorial?

http://retouchpro.com/tutorials/?m=show&id=272


I am asking because after reading cricket1961's blog titled Dodge and Burn Confusion, I got the impression that Chris does not use two curves (one lighten, one darken).

http://www.retouchpro.com/forums/blo...confusion.html

Instead, it seems, he makes one new layer (shift+ctrl+N), sets the blend mode to soft light, and enables 50% gray. From there he uses the brush to paint on the gray mask either black (to darken) or white (to lighten).

So all of his dodging and burning is done on one layer and no curves are used? Is this what Chris does or did I get it wrong?

Thanks

[transoptic]

abdul:

Yes, that's about the gist of it. Sometimes you can add a curve adjustment layer to add contrast thereby exaggerating contrast differences and helping show what needs dodged and what needs burned. But it is not necessary, and it is not used in actually dodging or burning.

[abdul10000]

Originally Posted by transoptic

abdul:

Yes, that's about the gist of it. Sometimes you can add a curve adjustment layer to add contrast thereby exaggerating contrast differences and helping show what needs dodged and what needs burned. But it is not necessary, and it is not used in actually dodging or burning.

Yup, use a desaturate or contrast layers for example to better see problems, but no curves used for the actual dodging and burning. Cool thanks for answering my question!

[Markzebra]

"he uses the brush to paint on the gray mask either black (to darken) or white (to lighten). " - you can sample COLORS from within the image, one way is to use HSB sliders to then lighten or darken them before bushing them in. I seem to remember from Chris post that he mentions this too, it does have the advantage of giving you localized control over color. Black and white may desaturate too much you will find on some images. The main advantage with this over the dual curves, or as many curves as you need, is mainly that its all on the one layer. Still prefer Curves though its Ok if you organize them.

[Dave.Cox]

One thing about working in photoshop is, there is more than one way to accomplish just about everything. Which one should you use? Well, that depends on your preference, and skill level with that method, and on the image that you are working with. I like to stay away from methods that are destructive to the image, and use methods that can be added via layers. That being said, I find that in some instances I use very methods that I genereally recommend against. I also will also expermient with 2 or 3 methods sometimes, and then use the one that procduces the best results. So again, which one to should you use? Use the method that works best for you, and produces the results that you are looking for. Just remember to keep an open mind.

[abdul10000]

Originally Posted by Markzebra

"he uses the brush to paint on the gray mask either black (to darken) or white (to lighten). " - you can sample COLORS from within the image, one way is to use HSB sliders to then lighten or darken them before bushing them in. I seem to remember from Chris post that he mentions this too, it does have the advantage of giving you localized control over color. Black and white may desaturate too much you will find on some images. The main advantage with this over the dual curves, or as many curves as you need, is mainly that its all on the one layer. Still prefer Curves though its Ok if you organize them.

What are the HSB sliders (Hue, Saturation, and Brightness)? Yes I have encountered this problem and would be interested in trying that solution.

Originally Posted by Dave.Cox

One thing about working in photoshop is, there is more than one way to accomplish just about everything. Which one should you use? Well, that depends on your preference, and skill level with that method, and on the image that you are working with. I like to stay away from methods that are destructive to the image, and use methods that can be added via layers. That being said, I find that in some instances I use very methods that I genereally recommend against. I also will also expermient with 2 or 3 methods sometimes, and then use the one that procduces the best results. So again, which one to should you use? Use the method that works best for you, and produces the results that you are looking for. Just remember to keep an open mind.

Yup, that's why I am trying to learn the gray background (softlight) D&B method, to try a different way.



Many thanks

[cricket1961]

Abdul

Yes, I do all of my brushwork on one softlight gray layer. There is nothing wrong with using two different gray layers to lighten and darken. I find that it slows me down though.
I rarely use default black as an option for darkening. I tend to sample a darker flesh tone from the image and use that instead. I will then turn the brightness down on that color to make it as near to black as possible while still retaining the color info. This eliminates any desaturating that may occur.

Chris

[abdul10000]

Originally Posted by cricket1961

Abdul

Yes, I do all of my brushwork on one softlight gray layer. There is nothing wrong with using two different gray layers to lighten and darken. I find that it slows me down though.
I rarely use default black as an option for darkening. I tend to sample a darker flesh tone from the image and use that instead. I will then turn the brightness down on that color to make it as near to black as possible while still retaining the color info. This eliminates any desaturating that may occur.

Chris

Hey Chris,


Many thanks for answering my question! You pretty much answered the last major question I had about this technique. Now, I am in the process of using this technique instead of the traditional curves D&B method and I am going to beat this technique to death to see what is the most that I can get out of it. Once this is done I am going to summarize my experience. Hopefully this will provide a useful thread for people who are also trying to learn the softlight (gray background) D&B method.


Thanks

[drouber]

Originally Posted by cricket1961

Abdul

... I will then turn the brightness down on that color to make it as near to black as possible while still retaining the color info. This eliminates any desaturating that may occur ...

Chris

Thank you for this remark but how do you turn down this brightness? Maybe by selecting a color range on the softlight gray layer and then turning down the brightness? Isn't this a difficult (selection) task if, after a lot of retouches, you decide a certain color or area needs further darkening? Maybe there is a simple solution. TIA for your comments.

[cricket1961]

I select the color I am going to use, click on the foreground color square to bring up the color picker and slide the triangles down on the gradient bar. Or reduce the numbers in the "B" field.

Then I start painting.

Chris

[drouber]

@cricket1961:
Thanks for answering but I was thinking of reducing brightness after painting. Painting again (or painting with white to increase the brightness) is the most obvious way of course. I thought I was missing something here or that there exists some trick to influence the brightness of an already painted area/colour.

[cricket1961]

I use curves on the grey layer. Or any other adjustment method.

[abdul10000]

The softlight D&B technique is just amazing! I can sum up its main advantage in flexibility.

Instead of having to use many targeted curves with the traditional technique, I can just change the color to target different areas of the skin. More importantly, by switching the foreground color from dark to light and vice versa I can Dodge and Burn on the same layer .


That being said, picking the right color has proven tremendously challenging. As I target different areas of the skin I can't find a clear formula to pick the correct color.

I always end up with over saturated colors instead of a total blend, which I usually achieve with the traditional technique. I wish there was a tutorial on how to choose the right color because that is the key component to using the Softlight technique effectively.

[Markzebra]

Its dodge colors that have this problem, the ones you use to lighten. No formula. Blue colors neutralise, use them at a low opacity, or set your brush mode while painting to Color.

Heres a mechanical way to pick colors which will work for your image… If you first make a feathered selection on your soft light layer which includes the areas which look over-saturated and wrong. Then use command U Hue/Saturation and move the hue slider, it will leave the greys untouched, but provide you with alternatives on your dodge color. If you change the mode of your Soft light layer to Normal (shift/alt N) while you do this you will see whats happening. You can then sample the colors that look right directly from your grey layer, store them as swatches. They will need to be lightened, use the HSB brightness slider. Shortcut for getting your layer back to Soft Light (shift/alt F).