Photography

[Steve Taylor]

Originally posted by d_kendal
actually, not yet. I got permission from him to start trying it out, but I need to find a new battery for it (I hope the kind of battery it uses is still available - the camera is from about 1970)

Greg - wow, that would be a *really* nice surprise!

- David

Try this.

http://www.batteries.com/ or this http://www.photobattery.com/

[chris h]

Dave,

I would think that the metering on the Pentax will be not be as integral to the functions on the camera as the present day models so you could probably use it without the metering system and it'll still have manual film wind/mechanical shutter etc.
Stick in a roll of 400 iso film set the shutter to 250 at f8 or f11 and snap away. Any modern film processing regime will cope with variations within this exposure range and even the depth of field(area in focus) will be quite flexible.

A Pentax is a much nicer camera to use than any Nikon or Canon of that decade and the Takumar lenses were excellent. Just go out with the standard lens to start with so your not chopping and changing all the time and can get on with taking snaps instead of being equipment orientated like most amateurs.

Cheers...

[clare]

David,

I can't at the moment find the book that I was refering to. Its one of those tiny ones thats ment to be kept in your camera bag or become eternally lost on a book shelf. I'll keep looking though.

I have found some web sites that might be of interest though

www.mrpinhole.com
www.pinholeresource.com

and another that contains all sorts of interesting photography info

www.photographytips.com

This one has a section on pin hole cameras that include how to make one. I made my first with an old shoe box.

I don't know if you have a dark room - probably not as you are just starting out. A black and white darkroom of this sort is quite cheap to set up, as you don't need an enlarger - just a few trays to develop the print in, or check out your local schools and colleges, most would probably be willing to give access to you, just tell them how mad you are about photography.
Also check out local camera clubs, when I first started loads of people from the local camera club donated things (filters, enlargers, darkroom gear, etc.) to my education. To them it was fantastic to beable to share some of there information with a future photographer.

Good luck and I will keep looking for the book
Clare

[d_kendal]

thanks Clare, the sites you recommended look really interesting. I'm lucky, my aunt and uncle run a little publishing company and they have a really nice darkroom which I could use sometimes.

- David

[Ed_L]

David, don't do it!! We might not hear from you for a month or so at a time if you get in the darkroom. The first time I saw an image pop in the developer (B&W), I was hooked.

Ed

[d_kendal]

thanks for the warning Ed!

I finally figured out what kind of camera it is: it's a Pentax Asahi Spotmatic
I 'm going to look for a new battery for it today.

- David

[clare]

Hi David,

I remember this Pentax, my dad had one as well.

Glad to hear you have access to a darkroom. I agree with ed once you see your first image develop you will be hooked. It took me about 3 years to get back out of the darkroom! I now nearly always print in colour, for some freak of nature I find this easier... I never understood this.

I would be really interested to see any of the images you produce and if you get the pinhole going please post your results.

Clare

[chris h]

Dave, A useful piece of kit for the outdoor snapper, plenty of room for instruction manuals and no punctures!

[d_kendal]

great pic. where did you come across it?

- David

[COLONELFLAG]

I am biased towards Canon because that is what I have used for years ( Rebel and EOS-7). I also know a well-known (locally) photographic aritst who could afford anything she wanted and she carries her Canon Rebel 2000 all over the world with her.

As far as education goes books will help but I would suggest you look into basic photo courses in the Art dept of local community colleges. the formality and structure will drive your learning at a much faster rate than just reading a book. IMHO

KTM

[d_kendal]

Hi Ken,

Welcome to RetouchPRO! very interesting to hear about the Rebel 2000, since that's the camera I'll most likely buy when I get my own. thanks for the tips.

- David

[paulette conlan]

Hi
Need some advise. I want to use my Canon A1 to take some indoor action pictures. It will be a cheer leading demonstration in a room that will most likely have only natural lighting from the windows. They will be performing in front of the windows at the time of day when the sun will be coming in. I can't change that.

Anyway I thought I would use a 800 ASA film to avoid having to deal with flash reflections in the windows. Should that be enough to prevent blurring?

Also the camera has only manual focus and I have forgotten how to set a focus zone so that I don't have to fiddle around with focusing manually which is cumbersome when you wear glasses and the room is not that bright. I can't just do a set focus from a fixed stop since they'll be moving around the room .

Does anyone know the settings of a self focus cameras ? If I set it at 10 feet for example what shutter speed and aperature would I need to keep the subjects in focus from say 6 feet to 14 feet?

Any help would be appreciated.



Paulette

[clare]

I would be tempted if possible to get someone to stand where you think the most likely place for the models is - to help you focus for that point. Then do minor adjustments to your focus if and when nessasary.

Be aware of the shutter speed and make sure that your camera is set for the fore ground so that the windows do not produce an under exposed on the models - again this can be set by your subject standing in situe before the main shot. Setting a good depth of field will help general focus issues.

This has the potential for some really fantastic images - don't be afraid to experiment a little. A slight bluring of the clothing might add to the general feel of the images against the bright windows.

Good luck and I would be really interested in seeing some of your results
Clare

Sorry I can't help with the canon problem - I am sure someone here can give you some insight. Have you tried the canon web site to the give any info there?

[paulette conlan]

Dear Clare,
Thank you for the advise. I think that it is the depth of field information that I was looking for. Have a good idea of what I want to do now. I can't tell you how much of a problem it is down here when you can't avoid having the windows in the background. The "sunshine of Florida" is aptly named.
I'll keep you posted.
Paulette

[Jakaleena]

Paulette,

I think maybe you want to use hyperfocal focusing in that situation. It's kind of difficult to explain without actually showing you, but I'll try...

If you look at your lens from the top, you should see some hyperfocal marks and lines (see attached image).

The hyperfocal numbers will correspond to your f-stops, and there will be 2 numbers for each f-stop - one on the left and one on the right.

Meter the light in the area you want to shoot and figure out what f-stop you will be using.

Focus your lens at the farthest point you want to be in focus and make a mental note of the distance. You should have meters, feet or both on your focus ring, and the distance you are focused at will be lined up with the center mark on your hyperfocal scale. Repeat for the nearest point you want to have in focus.

Set your farthest distance at the left hyperfocal mark that corresponds with the f-stop you'll be using (on some cameras I think this may be reversed and the farthest distance will be on the right instead of the left?). All of the distances that fall between the hyperfocal marks for the f-stop you'll be using will be in sharp focus.

With your farthest distance set to the left hyperfocal mark, if the closest distance you chose falls outside your right hand hyperfocal mark, you will need to choose a smaller aperture (bigger f-stop number) or limit your shooting area a bit more.

NOTE: When you look through your viewfinder, things will not LOOK like they're going to be in focus, but it DOES work - trust me!

The best way to prove this effect (if you want to test it in advance) is to go out and find some beautiful scenery on a nice bright f-16 day. Focus as you usually do for scenery and take a shot, then refocus by setting your infinity symbol on your left side f-16 hyperfocal mark and shoot the same scene again. You'll just be amazed at how much sharper the hyperfocal shot will be...!