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| Software Photoshop, Paintshop Pro, Painter, etc., and all their various plugins. Of course, you can also discuss all other programs, as well. |
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#91
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| While surfing today I came across Thomas Niemann 's site (again) that I believe has some really good information: http://epaperpress.com/psphoto/ Under the Black and White tab is a Classic Tones category where Thomas Niemann graciously shares some Curves presets. I took the liberty to convert these presets into an action. ~Danny~ |
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#92
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| a question from the land of ignorance Quote:
Especially: "Load the .atn file into your action list." and even: "Run Decrack"...I know this seems utterly simple- but I have no clue as to how to do these actions. So...return to kindergarten? As Denzel once said – in the movie Philadelphia – “Now, explain it to me like I'm a four-year-old.” many thanks- Jim Last edited by Jim T; 07-03-2004 at 01:59 PM. |
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#93
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| Hi Jim: Welcome to RetouchPRO. We've all been where you are (at the beginning) at one time or another, so no problem. Once you've download the .zip file onto your hard disk: * Unzip it and place the .atn file a convenient location. Some people like to put all their .atn files downloaded from the Internet into a single folder. In the big scheme of things, Photoshop really doesn't care where you put it. Make it easy on yourself. * Open Photoshop * If the Actions Palette is visible, Window > Actions (or F9) to show it * From the Actions Palette menu (black arrow, top right), choose Load Actions... and navigate to the .atn file. * Click on it so it's name populates the Load Actions window; click OK. This will copy the .atn file into the Actions Palette (it will be appended as the last entry at the bottom) and you'll be good to go. To apply the action you'll need an open image. Probably not a bad idea to duplicate it, just in case the action trashes it. Not likely, but just in case. Within the Actions Palette you will see a horizontal gray bars. These are "action sets," comparable to folders for organizing actions. Inside the Decrack action set is the action itself (horizontal white bar). Click on the action name, highlighting it. (This tells PS what action to play.) At the bottom of the Actions palette are several controls, one of which is a triangle. Click the triangle to play the action. There are two self-explanatory prompts to which you can reply OK to each. In the High Pass filter dialog, set the radius as you deem appropriate for the subject image. When the action completes, if you don't like the results, drag the layer created by the action into the trash and play the action again, specifying a different High Pass setting. Check Photoshop's help on "Automating tasks" as well as www.AtnCentral.com, where you'll find an excellent tutorial on actions. Hope this gets you moving. ~Danny~ |
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#94
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| Shadow & Highlight Control Their are Four actions in this zip folder for highlight and shadow control. Luminosity,Red,Green,Blue. The whole key in using them, is in the blurring of the duplicated channels. These actions are based on Dan (The Man) Margulis' article in Electronic Publishing (Sept.2004)(free reg. required) Making Two Ends Meet as well as Photoshop User Magazine. The article explains on how to use these actions for highlight and shadow control. The only thing you have to do, is while these actions are running is to apply a blur (action prompt) to the highlight and shadow of the duplicated channel. Which one to use for your type of work? Please refer to the above hyper link to read the article. Again... It's free. If in doubt, use the "luminosity" action. In fleshtones use the "Red" action. Setting the blur between 10 and 20 is good. The power of these actions is blurring the highlight and shadow with seperate settings. These actions have been tested for P.S.CS and 6. They will not alter your layered file. As always, please run these actions on a test file before using on a live file. These actions are much like the highlight and shadow command in P.S. CS. These actions give you more control over this process though. To some the highlight and shadow command might be faster, Also the command has a sharpening factor, as well as additional controls for adding color. This action "could" be useful for P.S. Elements. I have not tested this though. As I know very little about this program, or how to use it. John p.s. Forgot one important thing. When the action finishes. You can adjust the shadow and highlight layers opacity, to taste. Last edited by john_opitz; 11-11-2004 at 03:02 PM. Reason: forgot one step |
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#95
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| Great golden nuggets, John. Thanks for sharing. ~Danny~ |
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#96
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| Starburst Here's an action that probably won't have a lot of practical value, but it could be educational if you're into dissecting actions. It is based on this tutorial. It applies two not-frequently-used filters, Stylize > Extrude and Distort > Polar Coordinates to create a colorful starburst. You can play it using the default settings and pre-selected colors or select custom colors as the action progresses. Have fun... ~Danny~ |
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#97
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| You are right about practical, in my book at least. However, I teach a dyslexic young man who has a mind like a steel trap. He may not be able to read well; but he remembers everything and he is as thirsty for this kind of stuff as anyone I've ever met. My thanks to you from him. This is right up his alley. He will have more uses for this than you can imagine. Janet |
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#98
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| Cross process action Heres a simple cross process action I made, it gives the effect of developing colour neg film in slide chemicals and vice versa C41 to E6 and E6 to C41. Wayne |
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#99
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| Quote:
Two very interesting actions. Thanks very much for sharing your craftsmanship. Don't take the following as "complaints" or "criticisms." They are suggestions to consider that would make your actions a little more user friendly and flexible: * Instead of an Image > Adjustment > Curves step, record a Curves Adjustment Layer. This would allow the user to fine tune the effect once the action completes. It also avoids a nasty "Curves command not available" error message that will be generated under some circumstances if the user is applying the action to a multiple layer file. * Once the adjustment layer is created, rename it to "Curves - C41 to E6" (or E6 to C41). That would help keep track of what effect was applied 6 months from now, long after I forget which one I used, when somebody asks, "How'd you DO that?" * Next, record a "move current layer - to front" command. Normally you have to do this after the first pass of action recording is finished. The open image will need to have at least 2 layers plus the Background. Click on any layer as long as it's not the Background and not the top layer. Click the Record control at the bottom of the Actions Palette. (assuming Windows), while holding down Shift and Ctrl, hit the ] (right bracket) key. This will move the selected layer to the top of the layer stack. STOP recording. Why do this? It ensures the Adjustment Layer will always reside at the top of the layer stack regardless of how may layers the image has or what layer is active when the action is applied. It's just a little insurance against getting unexpected results. Check THIS POST for an example I was able to create by messing with a Curves Adjustment Layer settings. Again, your sharing is greatly appreciated. I had a lot of fun experimenting with both actions. ~Danny~ Last edited by DannyRaphael; 01-07-2005 at 01:58 PM. Reason: Added link to example generated with C6 to C41 action. |
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#100
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| Sorry Danny, I'm reasonably inexperienced at making actions, and didn't think of putting them on different layers, I will bare it in mind next time. They were made originaly for a particular set of pics, I was trying to reproduce the effect of cross processing (copying actual photos) and got pretty close (I thought) I like your pic, what did you alter? Wayne |
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#101
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| Using Danny's Knowledge Danny, I like to download these actions from all these people who are smarter than me and then play with them. Most of course aren't what I thought so now I have another .atn that I must erase for space sake or... Is there a method to be able to "folderise" these actions in groupings such as: Main tested folders [with such things as ones I've written]; ...color balancing atns; ...ones to test out... and be able to mount your suggested downloads for here to the 'ones to test' then move to the appropriate folder or the trash as necessary? Is it possible to organise atn s by a folder/set grouping? HOW I know that atn's may be organized in sets but I haven't a clue how that works. I remember how happy I was at finding you 'Mother of all atn sets' years ago and loading them. So many had no bearing on what I did but; I had no idea how to organize them so the list was so long I ended up scrapping all so I could figure out my atn list. The result of course was I almost never use a downloaded atn. ASIDE, Danny this could be a good Tutorial in another thread Robert Collins Last edited by Robt; 01-07-2005 at 10:23 PM. Reason: add sig |
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#102
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| Quote:
To create a new Action Set, click on the New Set icon at the bottom of the Actions Palette (the one that looks like manilla folder). Generally speaking you can add as many new Action Sets as you like and name them accordingly, e.g., Black and White, Sharpening, Art, Frames, etc. Then you can drag/drop (move) actions from Action Set A into Action Set B all day long. Similarly for individual actions (or entire Action Sets) you don't like or don't need, just drag/drop them into the Actions Palette Trash. Done deal. No need to keep things of no value. Unfortunately Photoshop restricts one to a single level of Action Sets (aka: an action folders), that is, you cannot have an Action Set inside an Action Set like you can Windows file folders inside of Windows folders. This limitation makes organizing actions within the Actions Palette challenging for those who hord actions like I do. When it comes to an organization scheme, there's no "right or wrong" way. It's like organizing your kitchen or office: You do what works for you and it may take years (literally) to fine tune the process/scheme. A second dimension is how to organize .atn files on your hard disk. This and other action organization-related topics are covered in agonizing depth in a tutorial I wrote which can be downloaded from http://www.AtnCentral.com. (Click "Tutorial" at the top of the page). If you haven't yet, check out that section (about 2/3 into it). After having done so, feel free to ask more questions or for clarification. I'll be glad to help. ~Danny~ |
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#103
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re: My pic In the Curves adjustment layer I experimented with the curve for each color channel. Nothing scientific... just dragged each curve this way and that to see what would happen. It was great fun! |
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#104
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| Thanks Danny, I have a set of four sharpning actions I made, one is a simple high pass sharpner, but the other three use several ajustments (glowing edges, gausine blur and Usm) I don't know where to start putting them on different layers, and putting stops in etc. (they took me long enough to make as it was lol) I could post the set as it is if you wish to take a look? Wayne |
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#105
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| Quote:
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#106
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| Sharpning actions Heres a set I made a while ago, it's a set of four sharpning actions, one is a high pass sharpner and the other three (2 3 and 4) use a more complicated arrangment of glowing edges, gausine blue, and the USM. The actions are non-destructive (they make a duplicate image as first step) they were made for medium size images 4-8 MP I would recomend no 2 as a starting point, 4 being quite strong. NB 2 3 and 4 may not work on lab colour or greyscale images (untested) Wayne Last edited by swanseamale47; 01-09-2005 at 05:04 AM. |
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#107
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| Overall a solid group of actions, Wayne. The high-pass action worked like magic. A couple suggestions: * I might include most of what you said in your descriptive text above in a "ReadMe" action that consisted of 2-3 Stop commands. Having your comments within a action in this group would be a helpful addition/reminder for not-so-good memories (like my own). * Waynes sharpner 3: Did you mean to include a Duplicate Image command at the outset like the other actions? * In addition to the Duplicate First Document step at the beginning of each action (a good practice, in my opinion), consider adding a Duplicate Background step and apply the sharpening to it. That way when each action finishes one has the sharpened and original layers in the same image. * On the action names I believe you meant to use "sharpening," not "sharpning." If you ever want to replace an attached file with an updated one, click the Edit button on your post, then Manage Attachments (again), delete the currrent attachment and upload a replacement. This is a very useful set of actions, especially for those not familiar with high-pass or edge mask sharpening methods. Well done. ==> Send me an e-mail, please (click my name above for the menu). ~Danny~ |
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#108
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| I have edited the last set of actions, I didn't reilise that no 3 didn't have a duplicate image command so I have remade that action, and (hopefull) it now will make a duplicate image. When I get the time I will remake the whole set, possibly adding some other usefull actions I have made. I apoligise for any errors in the actions, I'm fairly new to making them, so I'm still finding my way, but I wanted to share them with the other fourum users. Wayne |
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#109
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Hi just joined and have a question can I download the art history brush into Painter 9 or Paint shop pro 9 thanks |
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#110
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| Quote:
This is an excellent question. While on the surface it would seem like the answer should be fairly straight forward, it's a little messier than that. In case others who are reading this thread are not aware, the Art History Brush is a Photoshop tool, which can use any of Photoshop's brushes, e.g., soft-edged, hard-edged, watercolor, scatter, etc. For the context of this thread Photoshop supports two file types: * Brush libraries (*.abr), which may consist of one or more brushes (see above) * Presets (*.tpl), with are Photoshop tool specific, e.g., Art History Brush, Crop, Dodge, Burn, etc. Technically there's no such thing as an "Art History Brush file." If the file to which you're referring has a .tpl file suffix (an "Art History Brush preset"), then "No, it won't work in Painter or PSP." If it has an .abr file suffix, as I recall the .abr suffix can be renamed to whatever PSP uses for its brush files and PSP will recognize it. If applicable you'll just have to try it to see if I'm dreaming (a definite possibility) or not on this one. Unfortunately there's no such file name modification that will make an .abr file compatible with Painter. Wish the news was better for your 1st RP thread... ...but I'm sure glad you asked. ~Danny~ |
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#111
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| Quote:
Craig |
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#112
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Maybe it was the other direction... Rename a PSP brush.xxx to brush.abr and Photoshop can use it. |
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#113
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thanks for the explanation Danny now i understand lol would hate to miss out on a brush |
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#114
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| I hope I am on the right form. Danny I have your action ket 7a but the watercolor actions are very harsh I am looking for something to make me photos into something that really looks like watercolor. I work with artist everyday and I love the look. They have told me to get some of my pics ready to sell next year. I also downloaded Immpressionist but I am having a time finding just the right thing. |
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#115
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| Quote:
Impressionist isn't going to be of much help watercolor-wise, either. It does some styles OK, e.g., oils, charcoal, chalk, dry brush -- but not WC. The best WC effect I've seen in quite a while was created by Retouch member Goldcoin. She said she used Painter 6.0, not to be confused with Painter IX which is the current version as of 10/05. Here are a few examples by Goldcoin, who does some great work: * http://www.pbase.com/goldcoin/image/35809599 * http://www.pbase.com/goldcoin/image/46086979 Note: These were "hand (tablet) rendered" strokes, not generated from a plugin. On the right photo, the Buzz plugin can yield a semi-decent watercolor look, so you might want to give that a look: www.Fo2pix.com. I wish I had better news for ya... ~Danny~ Last edited by DannyRaphael; 10-01-2005 at 08:36 PM. Reason: added note regarding Buzz |
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#116
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| Too bad there isn't one because I can't draw but I can take a good photograph I downloaded the vincent zip but now I forgot where to put it. what forum was it on. |
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#117
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| FYI: The Vincent style has kind of an Impressionist-look. re: I downloaded the vincent zip but now I forgot where to put it. After unzipping the .zip, file "Vincent.set" needs to be placed inside \Impressionist\Impressionist accessories\User Settings. Once the .set file is in \User Settings and you've shutdown/restarted Photoshop, when you click the Styles button on in the Impressionist dialog, the (new) Vincent category will appear just above Watercolor. |
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#118
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| Actions Hi, I am a newbie and I think you people are very talented. I can only hope that someday, I can be half as good. Now for my question. Once you download the actions here, How do you put them into photoshop? I am interested in the decrack action. I downloaded it, then I didnt know where to put it, or how to get to it once I do get it. Please give me directios to do this, because I have a real need for it. Thank you. |
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#119
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| Quote:
Regarding where to put the .atn file on your hard disk many people create a folder in a convenient location (your call on where) and name it something like \my actions or \actions from the net or whatever... and use this folder as a repository for actions they acquire. After downloading/unzipping/saving the .atn file... * Open Photoshop * Press F9 to show the Actions Palette if it's not yet visible * From the Actions Palette menu (arrow/top right) choose Load Actions... * Navigate to the just unzipped .atn file and click Load. This copies the contents of the .atn file into Photoshop. Here's a good intro tutorial to check out by Sonia Coleman. (Scroll down to the Photoshop section.) It's a 3-part series, and will get you acquainted with the Actions Palette, playing actions, etc: http://www.soniacoleman.com/Tutorials/tutorials.htm Hope this gets you moving. ~Danny~ |
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#120
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| actions Thanks Danny, I will give it a try. |
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