Synthetic Imaging - - Deforming textures in a 3d way

ainurelfking · #1 03-20-2006, 05:01 AM

Hey, is there a way (probably a pluging) to deform a 2d picture in a 3d mesh or controlled shape? I work with virtual shoes, so I need to scan fabrics and apply them to shoes, but I want to deform the fabrics to make them look more realistic.

philbach · #2 03-20-2006, 06:13 AM

Well plug ins and other methods are out there. You can also make your own. This was made with photoshop. I made a new image in photoshop. I used the default b&w colors. I used the gradient tool with difference blending mode to create the curtain. I warped the curtain. I then used the texturizer to make a texture. I could have used HSL to color it.

The photoshop distort/displace filter is a good one to learn if you want to apply a 3d effect also.
The Filter/Render/Lighting effects works well too. Place a texture in the alpha channel and select that with the filter can give interesting 3d effects.

goose443 · #3 03-20-2006, 01:47 PM

In the liquify filter there is an option where you can actually view the mesh. It takes some getting used to but it can really help when warping fabric around a 3d object.

Cameraken · #4 03-21-2006, 07:18 AM

Hi Ainurelfking.
Welcome to RetouchPro

You may have had the best solution from Edgework (Over There)
However I had a go with the Liquify tool.
I am using PS7
Down at the bottom right hand corner of the liquify tool is Backdrop Box. With this checked the shoe layer can be loaded as a backdrop so that the warping can be better seen.
The other nice feature is that the finished Mesh can be saved so if a lot of the shoes are at the same angle then the mesh can be loaded back in.

My results are not perfect but possibly close enough
As Edgework said
"It doesn't have to be right, as long at it doesn't look obviously wrong."

Hope this helps

Ken

Kraellin · #5 03-21-2006, 07:57 AM

ainurelfking,

welcome to RP.

wouldnt this be better done in a 3d program? my guess is that the tools there would be better suited to this. or is it that your virtual shoes are in 2d?

craig

bart_hickman · #6 03-22-2006, 02:01 AM

I agree. I think a 3d program is the way to go if you have 3d shoe models (which I'd think a shoe company would have.) I guess if you can export a depth map from the 3d program, then you could use that in the displacement filter.

Nevertheless, I was having fun using Ken's shoe post using liquify. If you're going to use Photoshop, the only thing I'd add is you want to be sure to save the liquify mesh after you warp your first fabric to a particular shoe so you can apply it to new fabrics without doing the warping all over again. Here are a few I did--I'm terrible at the warping part.

I only did one warp and then applied it to all of the fabrics. (I also fiddled with levels to adjust shininess.)

Bart

chrishoggy · #7 03-22-2006, 02:21 AM

Nice work

I've found photoshop hard when it comes to wrapping textures, but those shoes look very good

Kraellin · #8 03-22-2006, 11:26 AM

that's pretty cool, bart. what did you use to trim your image?

for those working in psp, ver 9 or later, try the warp brush and warp mesh.

craig

bart_hickman · #9 03-23-2006, 12:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kraellin

that's pretty cool, bart. what did you use to trim your image?

for those working in psp, ver 9 or later, try the warp brush and warp mesh.

craig

Hi Craig,

I just drew a vector path and converted that path to a selection and created a mask from that. I brushed the mask around the laces at the end. The magnetic option (photoshop) is handy but not necessary.

The warp brush in PSP is functionally identical to liquify in Photoshop. Warp brush is actually nicer to use because it operates *in* the actual layered image like any other type of operation whereas liquify in PS is captured in a big dialog box.

The reason it looks good isn't because of the warping--it's because of the shoe shininess, texture, and shading. Once you get that right, it seems your eye is forgiving on the warp. If I didn't do that, my warping looks pretty awful. Ken's warping was much better.

I attached a little progression to show how the pieces go together. 1. Warp/liquify the fabric, 2. Apply luminance information from original image, 3. Create the mask, 4. Use the mask to add in the surrounding portion of the original image.

In step 1, save the warp/liquify preset so you can reuse it on other fabrics. From this, you can see just how basic the warping is with all of other visual cues removed.

Step 2 is essentially the same method I used to put a logo on the red ball with the water spritz (thread from several days ago.)

Bart

Kraellin · #10 03-23-2006, 09:14 AM

bart,

Quote:

I just drew a vector path and converted that path to a selection and created a mask from that.

ok, since you got PS i'm never sure if you're talking ps or psp. what did you use to draw a 'vector path'? did you actually make a vector layer and draw with something like the 'pen tool' or did you use the selection tool in freehand mode or something completely different?

and just because i wanted to see if you meant the vector pen tool, i tried this myself with that. i've not worked a lot in vector mode, but found this an interesting way to do a selection. the vector edits are quite interesting. i couldnt quite get a decent selection this way, but, like i say, i havent worked in vector much.

craig

bart_hickman · #11 03-23-2006, 09:41 AM

In this case, the two tools do essentially the same thing.

For PSP:
Get the pen tool and draw freehand around the area you want to select. When you're done, you can adjust the nodes or add/delete nodes or change the nodes (this is a large topic in itself). While you're editing the curve, make the vector layer 0% opacity--that lets you see your work, but the vector path and nodes are still visible (this is where the "path" term comes in.)

Once you have the vector the way you want it, make it visible again, choose the Pick tool (object selector in PSP9 or before), edit the object properties and make sure the stroke is invisible and the fill is solid and fully opaque.

Now you can go to the selections menu and choose "from vector object" and your selection appears.

The reason this is a popular selection method is if you want to change something slightly, you can always go back to your vector object and make some tweaks and re-generate the selection. It also makes nice smooth selections.

Bart

PatrickB · #12 03-23-2006, 09:55 AM

Kraellin, if you could get the 3D models I can sure help out with 3D Studio

Kraellin · #13 03-23-2006, 12:53 PM

bart,

ok, that's what i thought...the pen tool. that's pretty cool. i always thought the raster selection method shld have a 'drag the line' option. this vector method is nearly that. and yes, i did edit some of the nodes to either asymetric or symetric. that works a wonder!

the trouble i had was getting it to select enough opacity after i converted it to raster, but i found i had 'textures' set in the materials palette. turning those off made it ok again

thanks for that! that could come in real handy. i tried doing the reverse process, just to see if psp was that smart yet. i made a selection with the magic wand and wanted to see if i could turn that selection into a vector selection with nodes. nope. that also could have been real handy!

and while we're on the subject of selections, here's one i've never seen you mention. it's a very fast way of tweaking a selection. i've seen you mention the 'modify/select color range', but not this one. this one is similar, but faster and even offers a bit more tweaking ability. in psp 10 (not sure about 9), you make your selection and then hold the shift key down and click to add to it or the control key and click to subtract from it. the add and subtract are based on your 'match mode' and 'tolerance'.

so, you could make your initial magic wand selection based on 'brightness', but then use the add and subtract based on color and with a different tolerance. this allows you to add and subtract on a very fast basis using different match modes and tolerances. and you can use 'use all layers' or not, 'continuous' or not, 'anti-alias' or not and all the other tweaking features of the magic wand.

this ONLY works with the magic wand selection tool and not the normal object selection tool or the frrehand selection tool.

ok, i'm definitely going to have to play around more with the vector stuff. i love being able to edit the selections by nodes. i also found i could 'break' the vector path and add more nodes and that by simply placing one node over another, they would join. again, quite handy!

so, thanks

and patrick,

this isnt my thread. i'm not the one playing with the shoes. ainurelfking is the guy that has the shoes. but yes, studio 3d max was what i was thinking of, and glad someone here is familiar with it!

craig

bart_hickman · #14 03-23-2006, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kraellin

thanks for that! that could come in real handy. i tried doing the reverse process, just to see if psp was that smart yet. i made a selection with the magic wand and wanted to see if i could turn that selection into a vector selection with nodes. nope. that also could have been real handy!
craig

This is one area where Photoshop is pretty good--you can move very quickly from path to selection to mask to alpha channel and back again.

Quote:

and while we're on the subject of selections, here's one i've never seen you mention. it's a very fast way of tweaking a selection. i've seen you mention the 'modify/select color range', but not this one. this one is similar, but faster and even offers a bit more tweaking ability. in psp 10 (not sure about 9), you make your selection and then hold the shift key down and click to add to it or the control key and click to subtract from it. the add and subtract are based on your 'match mode' and 'tolerance'.

so, you could make your initial magic wand selection based on 'brightness', but then use the add and subtract based on color and with a different tolerance. this allows you to add and subtract on a very fast basis using different match modes and tolerances. and you can use 'use all layers' or not, 'continuous' or not, 'anti-alias' or not and all the other tweaking features of the magic wand.

this ONLY works with the magic wand selection tool and not the normal object selection tool or the frrehand selection tool.

I don't use the magic wand very often because of the way it selects things--it either selects a pixel or it doesn't. Usually, I want the opacity of a selection to vary continuously according to how well the pixel matches some criteria. That's where the add/subtract color range tool comes in.

With photoshop I do use the magic wand slightly more often because I can convert the selection into a vector path.

Quote:

ok, i'm definitely going to have to play around more with the vector stuff. i love being able to edit the selections by nodes. i also found i could 'break' the vector path and add more nodes and that by simply placing one node over another, they would join. again, quite handy!

so, thanks

craig

It's cool stuff! You're welcome!

Bart

Kraellin · #15 03-24-2006, 10:22 AM

Quote:

This is one area where Photoshop is pretty good--you can move very quickly from path to selection to mask to alpha channel and back again.

that would be extremely handy. one of these days i'll make the move to ps, but i'll probably never completely give up psp. the digital camera noise removal alone is something some would sell for the same price as psp itself.

craig