Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Scanning an ambrotype

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Scanning an ambrotype

    A client sent me a 2x3 inch photo to restore. At first glance I thought it was on black glass. I scanned it, and got results similar to one of our tintype Challenges (ok, maybe a little better, but those were Challenges).

    However, I held it up to the light and I see it's actually on dark brown glass that you can see through with a bright enough light.

    My question is: I don't have a transparency scanner. Has anyone who does have a transparency scanner run across one of these, and if so did you notice a difference between scanning in reflective or transparency mode?

    I'm wondering if it's worth a trip to the lab to get a transparency scan made, or if the information I'd get would be about the same as I have now (not much).
    Learn by teaching
    Take responsibility for learning

  • #2
    Sounds interesting Doug.

    My gut feeling is to always go with a transmissive capture where possible.

    How were these images originally displayed? Was a print of some description made off the glass? Say some bromide or pmt paper exposed via a lightsource with the glass sitting on the paper?

    Can this be simulated with modern photo prints and exposure if the transmissive approach does not work?

    Can you try placing white paper behind the glass when reflective scanning or perhaps even taking off the lid and introducing some sort of bright but diffuse backlight?

    Just some random thoughts, they seem a bit crude to me so I hope that one of the experienced restorers speaks up.

    Stephen Marsh.

    Comment


    • #3
      Disclaimer: I don't have any experience with this type of image.

      That being said, if the glass appears to be free of major defects (i.e., flat and the color is even, not blotchy), I would try scanning it as a transparency. Of course, I have a transparency lid on my scanner, so it's a bit easier (and cheaper) for me than going to a lab to have it done. However, I think any amount of light that you can get through the glass will only help bring out the details in the image.

      Before you bring it to a lab for scanning though, I'd try Stephen's suggestion of white paper behind it. If the glass is as dark as you say though, I'm not sure how much reflected light you'll get off of it.

      Good luck!

      Jeanie

      Comment


      • #4
        The lid of my scanner is white, so I don't know how much difference a piece of paper would offer I'll try leaving the lid up, though.

        The image appears mirror-like from the front, like a tintype. The glass is very dark, as I first thought it was opaque black.

        Luckily I can get a respectable restore from what I already have, though low in details (but it's 140 years old, so whatever I get will be acceptable). I was just hoping someone could try one with a transparency adapter to see if there's more detail to be had.
        Learn by teaching
        Take responsibility for learning

        Comment


        • #5
          Doug,

          Without the trans lid on your scanner, it is just going to give you a reflective scan of your image. Not going to do a very good job.

          One thing you can do is to place a BRIGHT lamp above your scanner (with the lid open ), defuse the light as much as possible so there are no hot spots, then scan the image. This sould give you more to work with. You need a bright lamp for this to work well.

          HTH

          Paul

          Comment

          Related Topics

          Collapse

          • richardsullivan
            Scanning Autochromes and Dufaycolor glass plates
            by richardsullivan
            I have read and researched quite a bit on how to get the best scan or repro from my color glass positive transparencies: Autochromes, Dufaycolor and Agfa Farbenplatten.

            High-end scanning quotes here in Hawaii start at more than $100 per piece, more than I paid for many of the plates themselves....
            10-02-2008, 06:51 PM
          • garyboudier
            Glass Negatives
            by garyboudier
            Hi, can anyone help me concerning scanning Glass Negatives. I have a large quantity that I photographed with a digital camera in a light-box...and that worked to a degree. However, most of these are at least 6 x 4 inches and some are even larger. I have been trying to find a scanner that will do this...
            07-03-2009, 12:07 PM
          • imago
            damaged photo still in frame
            by imago
            I have some large sepia tone photos for retouching that are still in their frames. I am not sure how to proceed.

            There appears to be some sort of watter damage in some areas. It is a darkenning under the glass and other areas of splotchy darkenning. I am not sure if I should try to...
            09-05-2001, 06:38 AM
          • nschiller
            The journey has begun into the world of Retouchpro
            by nschiller
            Hi all,

            I joined recently and finally got around to writing a short introduction about myself. I've been working as a photographer most of my adult life but it is collecting 19th and early 20th century photography which really turns me on. After 20 year of collecting I'm now in the process...
            05-03-2011, 12:44 PM
          • miket
            Physical restoration of peeling emulsion
            by miket
            I'm in the process of restoring some 1890-1900 half-plate glass negatives.

            They were found in the back of a kiln, and in a truly appalling state. The best I can hope for is to recover portions, and normal retouching processes don't apply - for instance I have black areas where the emulsion...
            11-19-2013, 08:40 AM
          Working...
          X