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This is the first mini-tutorial in a new series intended to illustrate basic photo-art techniques to those relatively new to "photo-art."
Assumptions:
* You're using Adobe Photoshop as your image editor. In some cases the steps will work as written for Photoshop Elements, but not always.
* Those attempting this tutorial have mastered basic Photoshop skills such as being able to create new layers, duplicate existing layers, run filters, renaming layers, etc.
Unless otherwise specified, methods apply to Photoshop 5.5 and above. When version specific functions are used, I'll do my best to identify them.
Layer naming conventions:
As you move through the tutorial there will be steps where the instruction will be something like, "Duplicate the Background and name it 'A. BG Blurred'" (or whatever). The reason for that is in subsequent instructions I can state something like "Duplicate layer 'A' and..." which makes it easier to write (and easier for you to understand) the layer to which I'm referring.
Since this is a "first shot" at doing this kind of thing, by all means add questions, comments, suggestions to this thread, especially if you are new to photo-art. This will help me craft better tutorials in the future.
- - - - - - - - - -
SMART BLUR - EDGES ONLY
(NOTE: Tutorial 02 is a follow-on to this one.)
One of the coolest discoveries I made when starting out with this photo-art thing was the affect one can achieve using the Smart Blur filter to generate somewhat crude "line drawings" or "sketches" based on the source image.
Smart BLUR? Line Drawings? Where's the relationship?
Follow allong: Creating a picture worth 1,000 words.
1. Open the attachment at the bottom of this thread (the base image we'll be working with). Cute baby, huh? She's the daughter of one of the RP members, John Buchmann. Why this picture? Cuz I think it's neat. If you want to use your own image, that's fine too.
In posts that follow this one will be images illustrating intermediate steps in the process.
2. Duplicate the Background
3. Name the new layer "B. Edges Only"
3a. Turn off the Background by clicking the eyeball
4. FILTER > BLUR > SMART BLUR
* Settings:
. Mode: Edge Only (notice the thumbnail image goes "black")
. Quality: Doesn't seem to matter much on higher resolution (150 ppi and up) images
. Radius and Threshold: These two work hand in hand. Try experimenting with various settings and see how they affect the image in preview window. Rule of thumb: Start out with a Radius value approximately 1/2 of the Threshold value and go from there.
For this image I used: Radius=30, Threshold=40, Quality=High
5. Great: Black picture. White lines. Now what?
No problem:
IMAGE > ADJUSTMENTS > INVERT (or CTRL + I for the shortcut fans).
Result: A black and white line drawing... with some pretty scratchy looking lines.
If you're happy with this "look" (it works "as is" on some images), stop. For this image I think the lines need "something." We'll get to that in a minute.
6. Click on the Background layer and duplicate it.
7. Name the new layer: "A. Blurred background"
8. FILTER > BLUR > GAUSSIAN BLUR (I used radius = 9).
Yeah. OK. We've got a really blurred image now. Is that it? Nope.
9. Click layer B to select it and change the blend mode from Normal to Multiply. Ta-da! The blury layer A now appears. Sort of OK. But those lines may still be a little annoying.
10. Duplicate layer B and name the new layer "D. Angled Strokes."
11. Turn off layer B (click the eyeball).
12. FILTERS > BRUSH STROKES > ANGLED STROKES
I used Direction Balance: 65, Stroke Length, 4, Sharpness, 0. You use what you like.
Watch out on Stroke Length... too much = things get really blury. Too little = really scratchy lines.
Notice how the lines have a little more of a sketchy look... not quite so scratchy looking. But maybe a little too dark?
13. Depending on your version of Photoshop, the FADE command may be under either the FILTERS or EDIT menu. Think of the FADE command as your opportunity to "turn down" or "back off" the previous command, kind of like a volume control.
FADE ANGLED STROKES...
I faded about 50% (Normal) and clicked OK. Fade as much as you'd like.
IMPORTANT: To use the FADE command, it MUST BE the next command executed after running the filter. If you change anything in the image or click on any other menu command or layer pallet option and THEN try to fade, the command will be grayed out. Trust me.
14. Turn off layer D (click the eyeball)
15. Click on layer B again and duplicate this layer. Name the duplicate "C. Crosshatch."
16. FILTER > BRUSH STROKES > CROSSHATCH
Stroke Length=4, Sharpness=2, Strength=1. Again, you can pick your own values.
The Crosshatch filter gives a little different look than Angled Strokes.
17. FADE CROSSHATCH...
Again to tone it down a bit I faded to about 50% (Normal).
Almost done...
18. Create a Hue / Saturation adjustment layer (name it 'E. Hue/Sat') on the top of the layer stack.
Depending on your version of Photoshop, you may be able to create adjustment layers by clicking an icon at the bottom of the Layers palette; in other versions one can click the Layers palette menu and make a choice from there.
If in doubt, check the LAYERS menu, select New Adjustment Layer and go from there.
19. When the Hue/Saturation dialog box displays, drag the Saturaion slider to the FAR LEFT (value -100). This will fully desaturate (remove color) from the image.
RECAP: Looking at the Layers palette here's where we should be. Blend mode in [brackets]. On = Eyeball is visible; Off = no eyeball.
E. Hue/Sat, on
D. Angled Strokes [Multiply], OFF
C. Crosshatch [Multiply], on
B. Edges Only [Multiply], OFF
A. BG Blurred [Normal], ON
Background, OFF
19. Now the fun begins. Call this mix-n-match.
* Want color back? Turn OFF layer E (click eyeball)
* Want to see the Edges Only look? B on; C, D off
* Angled strokes look? D on; C, B off
* Line drawing only? A, off; B, C or D on.
I think you get the idea. You can turn on / off any combination of these layers until you get the look you want.
KEY POINTS
- - - - - - - - -
* Smart Blur / Edges Only is one way to isolate the major lines in an image. Don't forget to INVERT the result!
* Each blend mode has a "neutral color." The neutral color of Multiply is white. This means that any areas of white on a layer whose blend mode is Multiply will appear transparent. That's why the "background" is visible beneath the edges layer.
* An adjustment layers allow adjustments to be made anytime -- even after O.K. is clicked. In this case the Saturation value in the Hue/Saturation adjustment layer was set to -100, appearing to remove all color (desaturating) the layers below. No actual changes are made to underlying layers, however. This is one way to see what an image will look like in grayscale mode without actually converting it to grayscale.
* The FADE command can be used to "throttle back" an effect after it has been applied. This command is only available immediately after applying an effect.
* Rather than applying one effect after another on the same layer, in this example changes were made to individual layers when possible. This is referred to as a "non-destructive" method, enabling one to make changes after effects are applied. This not only affords more flexibility when experimenting with blend modes and/or how to combine or order layers, it reduces time required for "do overs" should one decide to recreate intermediate layers. The use of adjustment layers (instead of using IMAGE > ADJUSTMENT commands) is the cornerstone of this approach.
= = = = = = = = = = = =
OK. That's it for this one.
Keep in mind this type of method will work better on some images than others.
Have fun. Do provide some feedback on this tutorial, either via the poll or posts.
Have fun...
~DannyR~
Assumptions:
* You're using Adobe Photoshop as your image editor. In some cases the steps will work as written for Photoshop Elements, but not always.
* Those attempting this tutorial have mastered basic Photoshop skills such as being able to create new layers, duplicate existing layers, run filters, renaming layers, etc.
Unless otherwise specified, methods apply to Photoshop 5.5 and above. When version specific functions are used, I'll do my best to identify them.
Layer naming conventions:
As you move through the tutorial there will be steps where the instruction will be something like, "Duplicate the Background and name it 'A. BG Blurred'" (or whatever). The reason for that is in subsequent instructions I can state something like "Duplicate layer 'A' and..." which makes it easier to write (and easier for you to understand) the layer to which I'm referring.
Since this is a "first shot" at doing this kind of thing, by all means add questions, comments, suggestions to this thread, especially if you are new to photo-art. This will help me craft better tutorials in the future.
- - - - - - - - - -
SMART BLUR - EDGES ONLY
(NOTE: Tutorial 02 is a follow-on to this one.)
One of the coolest discoveries I made when starting out with this photo-art thing was the affect one can achieve using the Smart Blur filter to generate somewhat crude "line drawings" or "sketches" based on the source image.
Smart BLUR? Line Drawings? Where's the relationship?
Follow allong: Creating a picture worth 1,000 words.
1. Open the attachment at the bottom of this thread (the base image we'll be working with). Cute baby, huh? She's the daughter of one of the RP members, John Buchmann. Why this picture? Cuz I think it's neat. If you want to use your own image, that's fine too.
In posts that follow this one will be images illustrating intermediate steps in the process.
2. Duplicate the Background
3. Name the new layer "B. Edges Only"
3a. Turn off the Background by clicking the eyeball
4. FILTER > BLUR > SMART BLUR
* Settings:
. Mode: Edge Only (notice the thumbnail image goes "black")
. Quality: Doesn't seem to matter much on higher resolution (150 ppi and up) images
. Radius and Threshold: These two work hand in hand. Try experimenting with various settings and see how they affect the image in preview window. Rule of thumb: Start out with a Radius value approximately 1/2 of the Threshold value and go from there.
For this image I used: Radius=30, Threshold=40, Quality=High
5. Great: Black picture. White lines. Now what?
No problem:
IMAGE > ADJUSTMENTS > INVERT (or CTRL + I for the shortcut fans).
Result: A black and white line drawing... with some pretty scratchy looking lines.
If you're happy with this "look" (it works "as is" on some images), stop. For this image I think the lines need "something." We'll get to that in a minute.
6. Click on the Background layer and duplicate it.
7. Name the new layer: "A. Blurred background"
8. FILTER > BLUR > GAUSSIAN BLUR (I used radius = 9).
Yeah. OK. We've got a really blurred image now. Is that it? Nope.
9. Click layer B to select it and change the blend mode from Normal to Multiply. Ta-da! The blury layer A now appears. Sort of OK. But those lines may still be a little annoying.
10. Duplicate layer B and name the new layer "D. Angled Strokes."
11. Turn off layer B (click the eyeball).
12. FILTERS > BRUSH STROKES > ANGLED STROKES
I used Direction Balance: 65, Stroke Length, 4, Sharpness, 0. You use what you like.
Watch out on Stroke Length... too much = things get really blury. Too little = really scratchy lines.
Notice how the lines have a little more of a sketchy look... not quite so scratchy looking. But maybe a little too dark?
13. Depending on your version of Photoshop, the FADE command may be under either the FILTERS or EDIT menu. Think of the FADE command as your opportunity to "turn down" or "back off" the previous command, kind of like a volume control.
FADE ANGLED STROKES...
I faded about 50% (Normal) and clicked OK. Fade as much as you'd like.
IMPORTANT: To use the FADE command, it MUST BE the next command executed after running the filter. If you change anything in the image or click on any other menu command or layer pallet option and THEN try to fade, the command will be grayed out. Trust me.
14. Turn off layer D (click the eyeball)
15. Click on layer B again and duplicate this layer. Name the duplicate "C. Crosshatch."
16. FILTER > BRUSH STROKES > CROSSHATCH
Stroke Length=4, Sharpness=2, Strength=1. Again, you can pick your own values.
The Crosshatch filter gives a little different look than Angled Strokes.
17. FADE CROSSHATCH...
Again to tone it down a bit I faded to about 50% (Normal).
Almost done...
18. Create a Hue / Saturation adjustment layer (name it 'E. Hue/Sat') on the top of the layer stack.
Depending on your version of Photoshop, you may be able to create adjustment layers by clicking an icon at the bottom of the Layers palette; in other versions one can click the Layers palette menu and make a choice from there.
If in doubt, check the LAYERS menu, select New Adjustment Layer and go from there.
19. When the Hue/Saturation dialog box displays, drag the Saturaion slider to the FAR LEFT (value -100). This will fully desaturate (remove color) from the image.
RECAP: Looking at the Layers palette here's where we should be. Blend mode in [brackets]. On = Eyeball is visible; Off = no eyeball.
E. Hue/Sat, on
D. Angled Strokes [Multiply], OFF
C. Crosshatch [Multiply], on
B. Edges Only [Multiply], OFF
A. BG Blurred [Normal], ON
Background, OFF
19. Now the fun begins. Call this mix-n-match.
* Want color back? Turn OFF layer E (click eyeball)
* Want to see the Edges Only look? B on; C, D off
* Angled strokes look? D on; C, B off
* Line drawing only? A, off; B, C or D on.
I think you get the idea. You can turn on / off any combination of these layers until you get the look you want.
KEY POINTS
- - - - - - - - -
* Smart Blur / Edges Only is one way to isolate the major lines in an image. Don't forget to INVERT the result!
* Each blend mode has a "neutral color." The neutral color of Multiply is white. This means that any areas of white on a layer whose blend mode is Multiply will appear transparent. That's why the "background" is visible beneath the edges layer.
* An adjustment layers allow adjustments to be made anytime -- even after O.K. is clicked. In this case the Saturation value in the Hue/Saturation adjustment layer was set to -100, appearing to remove all color (desaturating) the layers below. No actual changes are made to underlying layers, however. This is one way to see what an image will look like in grayscale mode without actually converting it to grayscale.
* The FADE command can be used to "throttle back" an effect after it has been applied. This command is only available immediately after applying an effect.
* Rather than applying one effect after another on the same layer, in this example changes were made to individual layers when possible. This is referred to as a "non-destructive" method, enabling one to make changes after effects are applied. This not only affords more flexibility when experimenting with blend modes and/or how to combine or order layers, it reduces time required for "do overs" should one decide to recreate intermediate layers. The use of adjustment layers (instead of using IMAGE > ADJUSTMENT commands) is the cornerstone of this approach.
= = = = = = = = = = = =
OK. That's it for this one.
Keep in mind this type of method will work better on some images than others.
Have fun. Do provide some feedback on this tutorial, either via the poll or posts.
Have fun...
~DannyR~
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