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  • Photoshop, Lightroom, or Elements- lots of slides

    I've just started scanning our family's old 35mm slides. There are hundreds to scan and correct. I'm using a CoolScan V.

    I have been using Microsoft's Digital Image Suite for my current digital photos. It works fine for those photos, but it's time consuming. When I tried to use it on some of the scanned images, it just didn't do well. Hence this post.

    I downloaded the trials of photoshop and lightroom, and have been playing around with both. I haven't looked at elements yet. I was able to get decent results with both photoshop and lightroom, with lightroom being a bit easier to use. Lightroom wasn't able to do a great job on one photo (photoshop did better), but photoshop is pretty spendy!

    I'd like to automate some of the "editing" and not hand touch every scan. I'm computer literate, but a definite beginner/intermediate user for photo editing.

    Which of these tools would you recommend, or is there something else I should consider?

    Thanks

  • #2
    Re: Photoshop, Lightroom, or Elements- lots of sli

    depends on the edits, you might be able to get away with using graphic converter if the edits are simple...

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Photoshop, Lightroom, or Elements- lots of sli

      Old 35 mm slides means some of them will be trouble. Fading and color casts due to emulsion degradation, pinholes due to deterioration / mould usually means some quality restoration tools required as well as plug in filters for noise and to speed up correction of difficult color shifts. I would go with the full version of Photoshop - depends on how particular you want to be.
      In any case, tools and skills change over time and your Coolscan V is a super good scanner. What I recommend is that you take raw scans with No Auto Corrections, No color corrections, No descreen, No auto anything, AND high resolution. Save these raw scans on a large hard drive (they are some incredibly inexpensive for 500GB or 1 TeraByte). Edit only copies of them and always save the original scans. Over time your negs and slides will continue to deteriorate (unless they are B&W).
      regards, Murray

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      • #4
        Re: Photoshop, Lightroom, or Elements- lots of sli

        I totally agree with mistermonday in scanning raw scans. But do apply one thing: ICE. I did some tests with my scanner (4000ED) and the difference was dramatic. It will save you countless hours of fixing dust and scratches.

        I am not sure if Nikon's own software can do this, but Vuescan is definitely able to do it (scanning raw and apply ICE at the same time).

        Personally I use Lightroom for the general colorcorrection/development of raw files. It is the easiest colorcorrection I have seen so far. And it is very easy to make presets that can be applied across a number of pictures. It is also a non-destructive way of working.

        For any detailed restoration, you will need Photoshop or some other tool that can use brushes, masks, layers and plug-ins.

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        • #5
          Re: Photoshop, Lightroom, or Elements- lots of sli

          Yes, by all means use ICE. I do not consider it in the class of corrections I described above as it is a reliable and accurate dynamic cloning tool which will save you hours of work. The other thing I always recommend if you have an ac operated Air Compressor with a 5 gallon tank, set it up to blast of most of the dust and particulates before scanning. What ever you do, do NOT use those compressed air spray cans like Dust Off. They do not have enough air pressure, the chemical are not healthy to breath, and they can very easily leave white residue on your film.
          Regards, Murray

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          • #6
            Re: Photoshop, Lightroom, or Elements- lots of sli

            The other thing I always recommend if you have an ac operated Air Compressor with a 5 gallon tank, set it up to blast of most of the dust and particulates before scanning.
            i prefer a lens brush. simple, cheap and no chance of oil or other contaminates from the compressor messing things up.

            as for speeding things up in the retouching and restoration and keeping within a budget, i use psp for most of my work. it's simpler than photoshop and does a good job on almost any retouching and restoration work. but, you can also find even simpler and sometimes free software online that will do at least some of the easier stuff without much problem.

            you might also take a look at the restoration forum. there was a post there not too long ago about someone else with hundreds of images to be retouched and i believe he set up a batch process to handle most of the stuff. myself, i prefer a one on one operation, but when you have hundreds or even thousands, hey, whatever works

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            • #7
              Re: Photoshop, Lightroom, or Elements- lots of sli

              Thanks for all of the inputs. I'm still experimenting with the trial versions of Photoshop and Lightroom. I like lightroom, but have found a few photos that I needed photoshop for. I may try elements just for a comparison.

              Regarding Ice (or any other scanner settings)- this adds at 1-3 minutes to the scan time- is this worth the extra time, and will the scans lose some of their detail in the process?

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Photoshop, Lightroom, or Elements- lots of sli

                ICE doubles the scan time because it scans the film twice. It has the effect of using the clone tool or healing brush on the spots where there is a surface anomaly (like dust) or a hole in the emulsion caused by a scratch or something that ate its way to the celluloid base. It can have a slight blurring effect, just as the PS tools have so the image should be no worse than the results you produce manually with PS. Unless your film has been cleaned by lots of quality moisture filtered compressed air, or cleaned with a film cleaning solution (not recommended), the extra time is a good investment because a good scanner will pick up every spec of dust and scratch. You will spend waaaayyyyyyy more time trying to clean up the image manually.
                Regards, Murray

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